A 5.7 or 5.8 start on a fist crack, where you'll place your first pro on the right - place it beside the first block of the pillar; the second and third are fully detached from the bedrock (causing the involuntary pucker reflex when your hand first goes UNDER one). Make easier moves clipping two bolts to the right (in lieu of trad pro on those suspect blocks) to reach the gully. Avoid much loose stuff here. Now follow the left arete past another bolt or two, and the move from the final bolt to the anchor is the crux. Going left as the routesetter intends makes a 5.10c finish using underclings and friction. Keeping to the arete or going right around the corner makes for a 5.9ish balancy or edge-stepping finish move.

Pillar of Pucker

Snap Happy

Wasp's Up, Doc?

Named for the wasp nest found on the first ascent, luckily the namesake work of insect architecture was gong when we visited.

A 5.7 or so move off the ground, then follow slightly easier moves up a cracks - really several natural lines will all take you to the anchors on top.

If you follow the first ascenders' line straight up from the final ledge to the anchor, you may make a 5.8ish move after clipping a bolt before the crux. This seemed a bit blocked by manzanita when we were there. I preferred either following the left-hand crack with trad pro, or following the right until blocked by the red bush, and traversing back left on naturals; both of these options were easier than 5.8 in my opinion.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Goblet Wall