This is a nice sport climb to the left of Gorilla Cookies. The crux is a bit of pumpy liebacks and underclings through the roofs and overhangs about 30ft up. Finish up and left across big knobs. A 2 bolt anchor/rap is above a small shelf on the arete.

Magilla Gorilla

Opiate

Gorilla Cookies

Pulp What?

The Sermon

Deodate

Pocket Gorilla

Stylite

Eschaton

Buying New Soul

Deosoul

Waste Of Time

Goes up broken corner to roof. Tricky sequence over roof gets you to good climbing in dihedral.

Not a bad little sport climb.  Sustained 5.9 and 5.10a moves on great edges.  The crux is pulling the mantle at the top and clipping the chains.

Start by clipping an off route bolt just uphill of the climb.  This will protect the leader from tumbling downhill if a fall occurs before the first bolt is clipped.  After that its all about finding the rests and reading the moves.

On the left side of the face, climb a 5.10b finger crack to a belay with a bolt.

Continue up 5.10a hands and a loose section to a belay.

A 5.9 chimney squeezes down to 5.10a offwidth. Belay at the top.

Climb class 4 to the summit.

1st pitch- Same start as Pulp What? but steps left at roof into shallow dihedral. Near top of dihedral goes left again to anchors. If doing second pitch continue traversing left above big roof to 2-bolt belay (better stance). 2nd pitch-Wanders up past gear and bolts to anchor left of small bay tree.

This route starts with the first bolt of Gorilla Cookies then moves left clipping another independent bolt out left to gain a broken corner system.   Tricky but good gear gets one to the first left trending roof.   Get through this until the next left trending roof is reached.   At this point, as things get increasingly hard, reach right and clip a bolt then proceed around into the overhanging crack with great gear.   Pump your way to an awkward yet viable stance in a shallow left facing corner.   Clip a bolt out right and maneuver around that way using arête and face holds while gunning towards the anchor for Gorilla Cookies.  There is a really good offset cam before the last steep moves to the anchor.   Deceivingly steep and pumpy.

Fun. Possible to access belay by traversing in from Deodate. Exit upper dihedral to left.

Easier moves down low lead to cruxes up high. A little grainy but will hopefully clean up with more traffic

Goes right from the 1st pitch anchors of Deodate.

The link-up of the first pitch of Deodate and Buying New Soul. An epic 180' pitch of great mid-5.11 climbing.

It's cleaned up over time and has become a worthy line. Direct start out the right side of the cave makes it 10a

Description

Protection

Routes in Northwest Face