Sit-start and immediately pull a large bulge with awesome, large holds. Cruise upwards on great jugs and don't forget to admire the view into the valley towards Old Tucson and Saguaro West when you reach the top. Don't kick any loose rocks down on your friends.

Daisy if you Do

Roof Problem

The Pusher Man Arete

Middle Inside Corner, Lower

Northwest Arete

Big Bulge Easy

Cholla Traverse?

The Pusher Man Arete Sit

Gunfight Slab Center

Cracked Face

Right Dihedral

The Negative

Lower N. Face Traverse

Northwest Face - Big Lower Boulder

Hidden Traverse

Hantavirus Hang

Cruiser arete

One Move Wonder

Big Undercling

Morning regret

Right Arm Problem

Left dihedral Bulge Variation

Main Upper Prow Jug to Right

Shelf traverse

Hidden Problem

Main Upper Prow Jug to Left

Left-Right Traverse - Small Upper Boulder

Morning amnesia

Left Arete, Small Upper

Cholla Magnet

North Arete - Big Lower Boulder

No Feet Traverse

Cholla Magnet Direct

Broken Rubber

Farstrider

Fault Finder

Farstrider Stand

Scary Fall of Death

The Cereal Bowl

This is the (original) sit-start variation to Cholla Magnet Direct (V1 PG13). Start right off of the pads. A nice right hand with a slightly not-so-good left hand layback leads to more layback moves in solid, big vertical-running pockets until the route meets up with the line that Cholla Magnet Direct finishes on. A better, and harder variation to a route on a less than oft visited nice face in Tucson Mountain Park.

This problem starts a few feet off the deck in an obvious slopey slot.  Find a way to finagle feet to keep your bum off the ground and move out right for a shoulder wrenching mantle.  The dab potential is strong with this one.

Start on the lowest edges and move up on crimps and arete holds to a big move to the top. 

Here is my variation: Sit start with left hand on the juggy sidepull about 3 feet off the ground and the right hand on a kind of lumpy sidepull thing a little lower and further out on the right side. Figure out some feet and just crank upwards. Once you are standing on the ledges and have the big upper jugs its easy, but a fall could be nasty. In the guide I think this is listed as "(V0)* OTD. The Inside Corner", maybe the standing start could be V0, but I thought the lower start was quite a bit stiffer, maybe V2/3. I'll say V3- and see what others think.

Start on the Jug and climb beta intensive moves up the slightly over hanging arete to a good rest at 10-12ft.  Then easy move the rest the way up.  This is an OTD problem for sure.

Start matched on the head high obvious main jug/flake at the prow of the main upper boulder. Go up to big jugs and top out. There are many variations to this.  

  Use good crash pads and spotters as the landing could be nasty!

a pumpy high traverse on the large upper boulder.start low in the crack that runs up and to the right,then traverse left in a large horizontal crack,past a dihedral and onto some crimps,then into a thinner crack

Start right of pusher man arete lying practically under the boulder. Use the RH slot jug and LH lower jug to place a right heel and left toe far under the boulder. Crank using crimps and tension into the start of pusher man. A dab could be painful. 

Start on rails in the center of the enormous slab, ride good rails and edges up the center.

Start matched in the hueco and climb the face using the intersecting "X" cracks, avoiding the boulder out right, and top out. Fun problem that's a little trickier than it looks.

Start on the two-hand edge, move right into the shallow dihedral and climb it on good holds. Starting farther to the left on the shelf and traversing in makes it tougher. This one ends kind of high up, but the upper moves are easy and the landing is decent.

Start right of a bush, at the bottom of the arch feature. Move out right to hold under mini-roof, then up. There is a cool vertical slash on the upper face that makes for a great hold if you get the body position correct. Loads of great feet on this one so there goes that excuse.

Sit start on the far left of the north face.  Traverse right on the sloping shelf. make the crux move from the shelf to the holds in the right angling crack.  continue right on the crack and finish around the arete to the right.

Start in the pod and climb small, positive crimps with good feet, following a thin seam. Somewhat highball but the upper section is very easy.

Sit start on a left hand crimp, a right sloper, and a heel.  Climb left along the lip and  top-out on the slab between the two rocks.  Careful not to dab LOL!

Roof crack. Start on the north side of the cave between the two lower boulders, left of broken rubber. Swing your feet above your head and make your way south, using jams and some crimps, exiting at the big block between the boulders. Smells a bit like rat habitat. A tape glove makes the crux more enjoyable. ​​​​

This is on the right of the late boulder The v2 is the sit start that leads up to the “inside corner v0” route . The v0 is if you stand start.  Climb up in the incut holds.

One of the best lines/single moves in Tucson despite its somewhat diminutive description in the guidebook.  From the sit, manage a pair of slanted crimps and make a long move up and right to a positive shark tooth hold.  Control the mega swing and finish left (1 pad) or right (pads+spotter).  Very powerful and very satisfying.

Sit down start on the big undercling and go up and slightly left. there are lots of variations to do here. 

  This problem is on the face of the smaller boulder (N of the big bulging boulder) in the upper boulder section(about a 5 minute hike south form the main lower boulders).

Good hand holds 

/crimps , get high feet,  trust the feet 

Start on low crystal jug. Move left to a crimp shelf and match. Gain a LH undercling and reach to a RH pinch. Keep the body tension and move left on sloper crimps. Top out on larger holds. Movement is great, slightly contrived and dabby. Forces good tension.

Sit start on the good holds in the left dihedral on the west face of the main lower boulder.  Mantle into the dihedral using the first 2 holds in the crack.  all other hold above that in the dihedral are off.  Make a powerful and long move to a sloping gaston crimp.  Cross your right hand to a crimp pinch and make a long move to an opposing crimp to the left over the bulge.  Get high feet and make the hard crimp toss to the sloper at the big crack.  Very easy move to the top from there.

Start in obvious huge low jug on the main NE prow of the big upper boulder. Got right to slopey shelf and continue right and up to jugs and top out. I think this is the V3 variation in the guide.

start left on the traverse and continue right, finish it off leading into the “inside corner boulder (v0) , and up the boulder. The crux is where the traverse meets into the first v0 (“boldly locks”) and also the mantle going up to the “inside corner “ boulder.  

Sit start on a low large hueco.  Pull a long move left to a 2 finger pocket, then a right shallow 2 pocket.  Set up for a big move with your left to a slopey edge then oppose with the right.  make another move over the bulge to a good hold and make one more big move to the lip and top-out.

Start in obvious huge low jug on the main NE prow of the big upper boulder. Got right past slopey shelf to first really good hold, then cut back left to good crimp and up to jugs on left, traverse a few moves left on jugs and go up to top out. I think this is the V4 variation in the guide.

One of the best problems at Gates Pass. Pumpy, with fun movement. Start on the well-chalked jug and traverse right with marginal feet, then mantel at the end of the shelf (or keep traversing around the boulder - it gets easier as you round the corner.) Crux is hanging on toward the end.  

  Staying below the lip bumps it up to V3.

Sit start on the arete just left of the big undercling problem on the small upper boulder. right hand on a crimpy divot thing and left on a good hold. Throw to the better left hand and then work up the arete. The standing start is VB/0, you can make it as easy as you want depending on the starting holds.

Climb the tall arête over a poor landing. Fairly straightforward and easy up high, but very serious.

The guide book says start in jug, traverse to end of shelf and mantle. So Here's my version: 

  Start matched in the obvious big jug (on the W-SW face of the main lower boulder) and traverse out right along the slightly slopey shelf past one dihedral to another shelf section and to another big jug. You can end it in this big jug and mantle there, or continue on to the next slopey shelf and go up and top out the boulder. 

  This problem requires lots of arm strength and endurance and ingenuity in placing the feet.

Start on an excellent and deep pocket right above your head while standing up and pull hard. Find good feet first on the left, then the right, and move upwards to a nice and sandy (but good) jug with your left hand. Move through crimp jugs/crimp rails through to the top-out.

Starting low on the right side of the boulder, make a long move out left to the undercling, find a way to match, and make a stellar move out left to crimps.  Finishes up and right on easier ground.

Start in the hole and make a huge move out to a pinch on the lip. Use small crimps and toe hooks to make your way to the lightning bolt crack. Throw to the big hole out right, let out a jackal screech as you do a one arm pull up and top out. Back splat off the pinch for full value

Start on the lowest two flakes on the main(upper boulder) on the steep overhanging face and move out/up and left and then continue up the V3.

Starts after the one huge move on the Scotty G classic, Farstrider. Start RH in the big hueco, and LH on the nice pinch at the lip. I generally think it is dumb to add stand starts, but I think this makes for one of the better low elevation v8ish rigs on the mountain, and is worthy for those climbing around the grade. Perhaps one day I will hit that big move for the first line. Top out by traversing right or climb the airy 5.8 going straight up for some spice and a proud finish. 

To the left of the tall west facing arret.  Start in the chest high seam with your back to the pointed rock.  climb on crimps and pockets up the tall face to a good rest at 12ft in the crack.  Then pull the super scary crux moves to the top.  From the rest in the horizontal crack make a VERY long move to a thin crimp and make a desperate move to a good hold below the lip.  The lip is huge and the top out is easy.  DON'T FALL!!!  Seriously don't try this problem unless you are very sure of your ability.  A fall on the problem at any point would be very bad.  If you get to the rest and are freaked by the crux, exit right to the arret.  I think there might be bolts at the top, but it's Great as a highball/solo.

Start matched on a flexing flake, move up to incut right hand, then to the bowl at the first lip, topout.  - From Old Pueblo Bouldering

Gate's Pass, best known for its spectacular sunsets, is also your best bet for some bouldering close to downtown Tucson.  The area containing the boulders, while not part of Gate's Pass proper, is actually quite nice in the winter months.   

  There are enough boulders close to the road to keep you busy for a day, with established problems from V0 to V7.  There are likely many more problems to be found, depending on how far uphill you are willing to walk.  One can only assume that the short season and abundance of better rock on Mt Lemmon has limited climber's interest here.  Still it's a nice place to spend a day when temps are right.  

  Gate's Pass provides a great opportunity to climb in a true Sonoran Desert setting, among some of the best saguaro stands in the world.  It is also thick with evil jumping cholla and rattlesnakes, so be extra careful, especially with pets around.  Don't forget to stick around for the sunset!  

  For a topo and handful of established problems, see the Arizona section atdrtopo.com.  Photos can be viewed attucsonbouldering.com.  You can also pick up a copy of tyler McMillen's new Tucson Bouldering guidebook at Summit Hut.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gate's Pass