Climb the bolted face of the rock proper with a bouldery start.

Kentucky Arts and Crafts

Finger Jam Crack

Nitty Gritty Dam Jam

Flaring Crack

Classic Crack

Hawkwind

Face climb out left from a ledge to gain the crack and follow up to the anchors on Classic crack

Climb the obvious dihedral left of classic crack with wide to offwidth jammimg

Found about halfway between the main buttress and the Dam

Climb a bolted angling crack heading up to a chimney on the left side of the main buttress. Pitch 2 is rarely climbed with offwidth and chimneying.

This route has a little of everything: no hand rests, exposure, unique moves, and beautiful location. Keep an eye out for the eagles that frequent this area.

Pitch 1 Classic Crack (5.8), Newly rebolted and will need 5 quickdraws to gain the bolted anchor located on the face above the large ledge.

Pitch 2 Hawkwind (5.10b/c) New Route and will need 10 quickdraws + Anchor.

Step up and right of the anchor on good holds to clip the first bolt and meet with the angling arete. Face climb and follow the arete up to a comfortable rest at the fourth bolt before a minor heel hook crux. Roll onto the ledge and gain the proudest no hands rest in the area. Clip the 6th bolt and commit fully around the corner to pump it out, as the arete becomes less defined, to the redpoint crux at the 9th bolt. Finish by grabbing the best holds on the routes as the difficulty eases back and continue past one more bolt to the anchors. (climber can be lowered to the ground, instead of belaying from the top)

Pitch one and two can be TR from the ground using the pitch 2 anchors with a true 70m rope, but every quickdraw must be clipped on the way back down to prevent the climber from swinging into unclimbable territory.

70 meter rope is recommended and can easily reach the ground on a rappel from the top. This route is easiest and most efficient if cleaned on TR. Please tie knots at the end of your rope.

Rappel Anchors have been added halfway down the rappel so a 60m rope can be used for a double rappel, instead of swinging over to another anchor station.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dismal Rock