I've led this route a number of times. The first pitch is around seven and a cruise. The second pitch is problematic. Small wires get you going (5.9). The problem is the crack above. I've never been able to set satisfactory pro in the lower section of the crack. Once, after climbing it, I rapped down and spent about fifteen minutes trying to solve the problem; I failed. A fall when moving up the crack (5.8) will be a serious challenge for those lower wires. A fall here could result in never experiencing a fall again.

Chuck Wagon Crack

Party in the Desert

Way Out West

Six-Gun by My Side

Honky Justice

Party in the West

High Plains Drifter

Herd Instinct

Ranch Hand

City Slickers

Wide Ride

Corral Crack

Wild Wild West

Report all Gunshot Wounds

Party till Ya' Puke

A Fistful of Poodles

Only Outlaws Have Guns

This short (aren't they all), but interesting, route lies on the left end of the Corral Wall, just left of Chuck Wagon Crack. Begin with a short left-arching thin crack, exit this (crux), then up face above to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel off (50 feet) from here.

The solution to the crux may not be immediately obvious, which is why the rating was made harder than previously reported. 2 of 5 stars.

One of the better climbs at the Corral Wall, this varied route starts with polished edges (crux) into a hand crack that ends at a horizontal crack below a headwall. Clip a bolt and move delicately up to another bolt where lieback moves transition to fingery edges. Continue on past another horizontal (1.25" piece here) to a last bolt where some final slab moves lead to bolted anchors.

The good rock and engaging moves combine to make this a Corral Wall favorite. Three stars out of five.

Start up

High Plains Drifter

and after getting over the crux roof move right at a horizontal onto featured face all the way to the ledge with anchors. One, maybe two stars out of five.

This is the next bolted route left of

Party in the Desert

and offers quality slab climbing with generally good protection.

Two starts exist for this route - the recommended start is via a thinning crack (pro to 1.25") that climbs directly to the second bolt, while the alternative (and original) start passes a solitary bolt right of the crack and involves contrived moves up and left to join the second bolt.

The crux comes at the fourth bolt as you mantle a tiny shelf (optional 0.5" cam here) and then make delicate moves past it. Higher more friction moves lead up to a bolted anchor.

Fun moves on good rock that will test your footwork and nerves, albeit safely. One star out of five, but add a star for the direct (crack) start.

Have a party on this fun crack which passes through a couple of pods down low and higher gets wider and easier. The easiest descent is to rap off the anchors for

Six-Gun by My Side

.

It's "ugly" as Bartlett states in his guide; and it certainly is. It's also awkward and quite strenuous. I put off climbing it for a number of years until I no longer had and excuse other than I'm not a masochist. Do it on an empty stomach.

Start in a left-slanting crack just left of

Six-Gun by My Side

(this is actually the direct start for that route) or the vertical crack further left and climb up to where they converge at a horizontal then climb the crack along the hanging rib to a ledge and finish in a short left-facing corner as per

Corral Crack

.

Near the left-hand end of the left side of the Corral Wall, just right of the climb Honkey Justice (identified by bolts) are two left-leaning cracks. The right-most of these is a 5.6 called Ranch Hand.  This left-leaning, left-facing crack climbs up mostly decent pro and rock to a termination on a good ledge.

Walk down and to climber's right to the anchors above Six-Gun By My Side and Only Outlaws Have Guns to rap back to the base.

Start on

High Plains Drifter

and after pulling the crux roof move left at a horizontal and climb the smooth arete/face up to the ledge with anchors. One star out of five.

Climb the obvious crack using mostly hand jams and some liebacking up to a ledge and then finish with a short left-facing corner to gain the ledge with anchors. One star out of five.

This crack might be a good lead for someone just learning how to place pro as it takes good gear the entire way and doesn't get done as much as some of the other routes nearby.

This was a fun route. I've heard it told that the route is 5.11 if you eliminate the obvious wide crack on the left. But why?  You can sit in a no-hands knee bar while clipping the bolts, so it seems natural to do it that way. The 10c grade assigned here is accounting for that. The first few clips are close to the crack and if you do use the crack at first for a kneebar, or later for an arete-like pinch or slappy lieback/barndoor, the crux comes just after leaving the crack to go belly-to-the bolts. There is a small and relatively blank section of face (10c?). Finish on easier climbing to reach a solid anchor.

Really fun and if using the crack, pretty unique!

Rap to the ground to descend.

At the very left end of the left side of the Corral Wall, just left of

Honky Justice

(identified by bolts and a brown lump of epoxy for the crux hold) is a left-leaning crack. Climb up the left-leaning, left-facing offset passing some poor rock and questionable protection along the way. Judicious avoidance of poor sections of crack make this climb reasonably well protected, but sound judgement is required. Near the top, as the crack goes vertical, the difficulty eases off & you arrive at a bolted anchor from which you can rap 20 Meters to the ground.

If it were better cleaned or more solid in general, I'd give it a star. It needs worked over!

Start as for

Party In The Desert

, but at the top of the crack cut right and climb steep slab past four bolts and a horizontal (1-1.25" gear) near the top. After the horizontal delicate moves left join the anchors on

Party In The Desert

.

Good rock, good protection and thoughtful movement combine to make this a route worth checking out. Three stars out of five.

Start up a left-facing flake which curves as it goes up and finish with face climbing to anchors on a ledge.

Climbing this route with people on Six-Gun By My Side may present a problem as the two routes are rather close together, especially at the top.

This is the second to left-most bolted climb on the left side of the Corral Wall. It ascends 3 sections of light-colored face, separated by horizontal cracks/grooves. The line starts up and left and curves gracefully right past 3 bolts until finishing up and right to join the anchors on Six Gun By My Side.

The climbing was decent and the rock pretty good. No complaints, but nothing about the route really stood out. A good addition to the cliff and worth doing while you are there.

Description

Protection

Routes in Corral Wall - Left Side