In the wild west days of ranching and gold mining in J Tree, Bill Keys and Worth Bagley had an argument and settled it like men and Bill Keys murdered Bagly and then made a sign telling everyone he killed Mr. Bagley because he was being a bitch. Now almost 70 years later the world is filled with softies who need a safe space. Don't be bitch like Bagley and climb this route.

Probably the best route here. Head up the crack, place a cam down low in the crack and then with gear down below your feet pull up and over the flake and finish up an off width crack placing more gear to the top.

Worth Bagley was a Bitch

Huskies are Poodles too

The Face from Nowhere

Coarse and Bulgy

Squirmney

Calfsmoke

Single Dog Leg

Snowblade Tracks

Bolt Ladder aka AIDS

Smokin Bagley

Walk on the mild side

A link up of 2 routes. Start up Worth Bagley or on of the cracks just to the left and then top it out to a mini ledge and head up calfsmoke to the top.

Head up Squirmney and towards the top cut right following a thin seam. Follow the seam for 10 feet clipping 2 rusty pitons (Don't get too excited Royal Robbins didn't put these in, I did).  Then put in another cam and pull up to the top.Throw a directional in for your bud and clip the bolted anchors.

The face from nowhere...Theres an awesome hard face at the top right of the crag but you can't really get to it. You could do a direct start and climb some death burnt crumbly slab but no, you can bush whack up the hill and traverse in but thats still blank and weird too. If you figure it out, the face is fun. I just rap in 1/2 way and TR solo the top face.

Start up Squirimney and go straight up the hanging bulgy crack flake thing. follow it up a coarse grainy slab.

This is the first crack you will get to from the approach. Head straight up and a little to the right placing gear as you go and up into a squirmy gritty chimney.

After this route your calfs will be smoking

Head up the curving hand crack/layback/undercling into a fist crack. Shake you calfs out and follow the thin crimpy crack left smearing your feet until you hit a jug and top out.

Head up Squrimney and then cut right pretty early across a ledge with a bush then head up clip a lone bolt and muscle your way to the top.

J tree and Tahquitz have ski tracks carved into the rock, this spot just has little baby snowblade tracks. Follow the 2 thin curving cracks up and left, traverse out grab an undercling and then top out, throw a direction in for your bud and walk right and clip the anchors.

Bolt ladder up a blank slab to have fun practicing aid climbing.

Easy moves straight up the bulges put in a cam and start clipping bolts and cheating your way to the top with those ladder thingys. There's 1 janky rivet hanger in for fun but you don't need any fancy aid gear.

Prolly goes free at 5.14. But you'd deck and die if you fell onto the 1/4 bolt rivet hanger so don't try and be a hero.

An easy crack on the left side of the crag. Start at a wide crack and follow it up and right as it curves to the top. It has some awkward hand foot matches as you're walking to the anchor at the top. Remember to place gear for the follower.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fictitioua Tree Rock