In my opinion, this may be the best route on Tradistan Tower. I may try to head back up and see if there is a more direct start. Nonetheless, This route has got quite a bit to offer: massive dihedral, crack climbing, roofs, overhangs, face climbing, off-width, squeeze chimney. Mmmmm mmmmm.

From the approach trail, you can see the massive cave in the massive dihedral. This is what you're looking for. Start up the massive dihedral in-between '

No Country For Old Men

' and '

Nuggernaut

'. After a full rope length, you'll see a red sling with a quick-link on it. I belayed on the huge ledge to the right.

From here, we moved the belay more to the right, about 30'. There was an exposed step around to a small stance to get started again. Be sure to head right here. Do not continue up towards the purple sling a short distance up. Head on up, trending slightly right perhaps. This pitch ended with a small overhang in a v-slot like feature.

At this point, I remember heading up a short crack in a blocky, right-facing dihedral and making a step around left. I continued heading up, doing some face climbing. I finished this pitch after another small overhang.

1.5 to 2 more pitches of fun face climbing up and slightly left will put you at the base of Da Cherry on Top! This is the money pitch. It is a huge piece of solid and amazing rock. It is a left-facing dihedral with an off-width to squeeze chimney. Get on up this thing, and you'll be right near the rappel route, and the summit.

Descent - follow cairns from the summit southeast-ish to a bolted rap anchor. Make one single rope rap to a large tree with webbing. From here, make a double rope rap to a small, singular tree with webbing. Another double rope rap will get you to a bolt and fixed nut (webbing/cord could use an update). From here, make a double rope rap to a large terrace with a two bolt anchor. One more double rope rap will get you to the base of the Nuggernaut. You may want to leave your shoes/packs at the base of the '

Nuggernaut

'.

This is an adventurous route, as is Tradistan Tower. Don't fret too much about finding the exact route I tried to describe above. Just make sure you end up at Da Cherry on Top somehow. Enjoy the climbing and adventure.

Da Cherry on Top!

No Country For Old Men

The Pine Line

Thundercats are Go!

No Cherry For Old Men

Nuggernaut

This route features some of the best crack climbing on the tower and was the first route on the tower climbed.  The crux comes on the overhanging handcrack on pitch 3.  The first three pitches are awesome, and then the angle eases and the climbing is quite easy to the top.  Would like to get some anchors on this one soon.  The line is not really obvious, and numerous lines can be climbed off of each ledge system.

P1: start up wide, wet crack and go straight up or left, then up handcrack next to a small cave to large ledge and belay.  5.9, 180'.

P2: this pitch is killer.  Climb straight up stembox that looks much harder than it is and exit at top right of stembox on giant jugs and great gear.  Follow smaller dihedrals and overlaps up to ledge and belay.  5.9, 200'.

P3: this is the sweet, overhanging handcrack that one can see from below on the approach.  It starts out 0.75 and goes up to a #3 Camalot at the top-slightly overhanging and strenuous.  Belay??? with not much for an anchor. 5.10+, ?'.

P4-6:  climb up to the top of the tower after the crux pitch.  5.4-5.7, 400'.

The Pine Line is a fun moderate route that climbs a series of features left of the

Nuggernaut

. There is a mix of gear and some bolts. All belays are at good ledges with bolted anchors and incredible views. The route can be rapped with a single 70m rope. The rock quality is overall good and will clean up more with traffic.

P1 - climb past some horizontal cracks, clip a bolt, and continue into the alcove. Clip another bolt, and climb out the left side of the alcove up to a short, steep finger crack. Pull a bulge atop the finger crack, clip a bolt, and continue up to a steep, juggy corner that finishes at a bolted anchor at a large terrace (5.9, 100').

P2 - move the belay across the large terrace to behind a tree at a belay bolt. Climb up the groove/weakness past three bolts to a leftward slanting feature. Move up and left past two more bolts to a bolted anchor at a good ledge (5.7, 100').

P3 - climb straight up from the belay to a bolt. Continue up and left up a good flake/crack to a bushy ledge. Move up and right to a groove, clip a couple bolts, pass a rap station, and climb the slanting finger crack up to a bolted anchor at the next good ledge (5.8, 130').

P4 - move out right from the belay, clip a bolt, and climb up the shallow right-facing corner feature. When the feature ends, clip a bolt, and face climb up to a bolted anchor at a good ledge (5.7, 75').

P5 - move the belay 25' to the right on a great sidewalk ledge to a good stance and a belay off hand-size cams. Climb a series of blocky corners and face past three bolts to a small tree. Continue up and left past one more bolt to a bolted anchor at a good ledge (5.7, 110').

P6 - climb up and left from the belay, clip a bolt and pull a juggy overhang. Continue up and left past two more bolts to a steep corner. Follow the steep and juggy corner past three more bolts to a bolted anchor at the upper terrace (5.8, 115').

From the upper terrace there are several options:

1. Rappel the route with a single 70m rope (see the topo).

2. Climb the $$$ pitch of

Da Cherry on Top

(5.9+). Maybe bring a few extra mid-sized cams if planning to so this finish.

3. Climb the headwall crack (5.7).

4. Climb the bolted face right of the headwall crack (directly under the Nuggernaut rappel line). 5.9ish?

If continuing to the top of the formation, use the standard rappel line (as for

Nuggernaut

) to get down to the base. This can be done with a single 70m rope from bolted stations.

P1 - head up the blocky dihedral and exit left to a ledge with a large tree for a belay (5.8, 100 feet).

P2 - continue up into chimney system for another 100 feet to another ledge at the base of a loose, bombay chimney and belay off large boulders (5.8).

P3 - plug a low cam into the chimney, and cut left up the face making awkward moves on marginal gear until you reach a small ledge at the base of a killer hand crack. Jam the crack, and then stem/chimney past a small roof with some large, loose flakes lodged inside it. Another 30 or so feet leads you to the base of an obvious finger crack above a large block (5.10, 200 feet).

P4 - climb the crux finger crack, and then ascend mostly low 5th class terrain to the base of a short dihedral and belay off trees (5.10 A0, 200 feet; this probably goes free at 10+, but the FA party had to use a shoulder boost/bail to avoid a potentially scary deck).

P5 - climb the dihedral and two or three more "tower" features, trending right basically until the rope runs out and belay off blocks (5.8, 200 feet).

At this point, we untied and scrambled up and right to the top of the

Nuggernaut

raps.

The route starts in the same dihedral as for

Nuggernaut

, then it moves out right and follows a series of cracks and corners to the top of

Tradistan Tower

. The rock quality and protection are surprisingly good. All belays are at good comfortable ledges. It is a nice, moderate outing with an adventurous feel and great views. Pitch lengths, ratings, and details are described the best as I can remember.

P1: Start up the same left-facing dihedral as for

Nuggernaut

and climb it for about 75' to a belay at a tree out right on a large ledge (~75', 5.8).

P2: Scramble up and right over a few loose blocks and climb a small corner. At the corner's top, traverse right passing under a ^ shaped roof, and do an exposed step right to a ledge and belay (~75', 5.7).

P3: Climb the face, pull a small bulge, and continue into a small corner that leads to a large ledge with a tree (~75', 5.7).

P4: Climb nondescript terrain following cracks and corners to the next large ledge with a tree (~150', 5.6).

P5: Continue up more cracks and corners to the next large ledge and belay below a large tree in a corner with a chockstone above (~175', 5.6).

P6: Climb the corner/groove past the tree and under the chockstone. Continue up and right on easy ledges (some loose blocks through here), and belay at a ledge (~175', 5.6).

P7: Move the belay left, to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the fist to finger-sized corner to the summit (~50', 5.7).

Descent: 5 rappels to get down. Find the summit cairn and look for another cairn down SE-ish and a semi-hidden bolted anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (61m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of

Nuggernaut

.

This is a nice, long moderate with excellent belay stances and fun, varied climbing.  It is one of the more continuous lines in the area.  An old pin was recently found about 750' up this climb at the bottom of a nice dihedral variation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tradistan Tower