Purple Haze is a fun, beginner route. Pull off the ground with a little, bulgy boulder problem, and then make your way out to the ridge where the exposure becomes pretty fantastic. Do a couple more steep-ish moves to a ledge. Use the chains for

Balsa

.

We bolted this on an evening with a lot of haze from the smoke of forest fires burning off to the west resulting in a beautiful sunset - thus the name.

Purple Haze

Autumn Leaves

Jigsaw

Dovetail

Wailing Wall

Splinter

Mahogany Swirl

Corner Joint

Balsa

Against the Grain

Against the Joint

Petrified

Golden Staircase, pitches 1&2

Roof Issues

Pins & Tails

Electric Forest

Autumn Leaves climbs a fun, clean handcrack up to a ledge. Then step right into the chimney.

If you don't want to deal with the chimney or want to setup a toprope, you can use the chains above

Balsa

.

This climb ascends the center buttress on the east side of Woodstone. Start by stemming in an inset, then pass an overlap, and gain a short slab above. Then climb through the crux section of the route, which involves a series of overlaps with puzzling movement involving a mix of underclings, sidepulls, Gaston holds, pinches, and crimps. The final section of the route involves mellow climbing and provides a fun finish.

Start on the ground a few feet left of a large stone. Climb up the face using crimps and edges to reach bolt 1 (avoid stepping on the large stone). From bolt 1 follow the bolt line directly up and over a tricky bulge using crimps and sidepulls. You encounter the 1st crux getting to bolt 1 and the 2nd crux between bolts 3 and 4.  After clipping bolt 4, climb up the face above on steep featured rock to reach the anchors. Note: If you want to bypass the 1st crux you can step off the large stone to start the climb and ease the difficulty.

This is a little short but sweet and powerful route from within The Alcove (formed by the gap between Woodstone & Half & Half Crag).

It is a overhanging small face.

This is the central route on Woodstone's short but striking uphill face.

"Splinter" is a short, steep, and varied route on that woodgrain granite. Super fun.

Climb through the first two bolts of bullet rock via a bouldery sequence (crux) and into a steep juggy section below a small roof. Launch into a short corner over the roof, choosing your own sequence between the arete and/or tricky face holds. Finishes all too quickly onto the slab.

This shares anchors with

Wailing Wall

. Thank you to the previous equippers at "Woodstone", Scott & Yuri Kimball and to J. Siegrist for the support and lending me his drill. It proved quite the little challenge after many years away from sport climbing. I hope you enjoy!

Mahogany Swirl is a shorty but a goodie. Crimp up the beautiful swirly stone until a crimpy reach crux just below the finish.

Prepare for smeary feet but juggy underclings on this fun little arete. Some might want to stick clip the second bolt.

Balsa is a nice, little moderate on great stone.

Against the Grain is an awesome, bouldery, little rig on great rock. Some tricky movement for the first three bolts leads to a good clipping hold and then the crux - some dynamic moves on perfect crimps up the steepest part of the wall.

The Kimballs installed an anchor on top of this unique feature in the mid 2000s (?). The uphill side of Woodstone is short, but the rock is awesome and steep! Now, with four great routes on this chunk of stone it is certainly worth the hike.

Also, if you wandered all of the way over here for this thing, you cannot leave until you try '

Purple Heart

,' 12+, on the steep south side of that incredible pillar just down from Woodstone. Find it listed under 'Slot Rock' on Mountain Project.

Climb the first four bolts of

Against the Grain

. Match on the right, incut clipping hold at bolt four, then tick-tack on small crimps to slap right into the bowl. Make your way up the bowl to a good hold high and right from which you can cross-clip the last bolt on

Corner Joint

. Finish on

Corner Joint

.

This is very continuous with a hard, crimpy crux.

The first section of the route angles up and right and climbs through a couple tricky bulges flanked by hand cracks. Then mellow climbing leads to bolt 6 and the base of a bulging steep section which is the crux of the route. Climbing through this steep section follows the bolt line (bolts 7 to 10) with some movement slightly left of the arete on the face between bolts 9 and 10. Follow the bolt line here and do not climb right of the arete into the chimney that exits up and right toward P2 of Golden Staircase. Climbing through the crux has great exposure and the climbing involves technical punchy movement using side pulls, pinches and crimps along with tricky feet. The climbing above bolt 10 eases off and ascends the face just left of the arete to the anchors. Note: an onsight of Petrified while hanging the draws could be relatively harder, but with proper beta for the crux section a flash or repeat ascent could be relatively easier.

P1: (5.9, 1 star). Climb slabby rock which is a little dirty down low and end below the upper headwall on a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

P2: (5.10c, 3 stars). Climb the colorful wall above near the arete on crisp edges. Pull two roofs with the second being the toughest.

There are two bolts at the top, but they are not set up to rappel. Either bring some slings, and downclimb to the nearby 5.12 anchors, or get your rope stuck.

Per

Doug Haller

: there is now a second rap at the far east side of the summit. It requires downclimbing to a chockstone and then some. This puts you in a better position for P3 and P4.

This climb ascends the left buttress as viewed from the east side of Woodstone. Start by face climbing into a small roof, and then continue through a series of small roofs above, which present different issues as you climb through them. The final section of the route involves mellow climbing to the chains.

Start off the ground at the bottom of the southwest corner just left of the arete. Climb up the face into a shallow, right-facing corner and using downpulls and underclings, and climb up and out of the corner onto the face above. Follow a right-facing, shallow corner to the right edge of a small ledge, and join

Dovetail

at the 5th bolt. Follow

Dovetail

, and climb the face above to reach the anchors.

Scientists have known for some time that trees can conduct electricity, but to extract electricity from the Woodstone and convert it into useful energy, you need to have a reliable source of power and technique.

The first bolt is easily clipped upon arrival from the chockstone boulder to the left, before shoeing up (recommended). Find your way to the first big undercling, and navigate engaging slab moves that trend right to a good hold in the seam. A powerful sequence leads to a good rest and a fun, airy sequence over the steepest part of the roof and onto the slab. An exposed fun 5.10 ride leads the rest of the way to the anchors. This is a photogenic and enjoyable route on good Twin Sister's granite. It is classic.

It is easy to access the anchors of "

Jigsaw

" from here and gear up for its sister route, if so inclined.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Woodstone