This short steep route starts off crimps in the middle of the small cave area, and pulls stright up the crux bulge via good three finger pockets, to increasingy bigger holds all the way to the ledge.  Surmount the ledge and clip the anchors above.  This route has also been soloed.

Edolecence

The CHCA

Damage I Have Done

Chickens at Risk

The best route at the crag that fires straight up the middle of the overhanging amphitheatre via crimps, slopers, and pockets without a real rest on the whole route.  Start up the face just right of the little cave and crux it out with big moves off pockets and slopers to gain a rest and clip off a big slopping hold.  Then a series of excellent moves off a heel hook deposit you at a dihedral at the top of the face, stay left of the dihedral and go to the top of the cliff to clip cold shuts.  Pumpy and fun the whole way....

The very steep line up the left hand side of the small cave that is Ed Rock.  Start on the sloping jug and make a series of powerful moves between good pockets to a hard throw out left to a sharp crimp, then traverse left out the lip to a single bolt anchor.  This also has a sit down start, and can be topped out.

Start up the crack and over the bulge. End at the anchors at the top on the right hand side above the loose rocks wedged in the crack. The first couple hangers twist a bit making the sharp end seem a bit more intense, but hey... what's climbing without the risk?

Also, this is a great warm up problem. You can set up a top rope for "Common Misconception" from the anchors, walk off, or rap down.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Ed Rock