This route starts to the left of

Crime and Punishment

, following a couple of bolts through the same initial slab.

The slab start is maybe around 5.9 and very sharp and precise. At the third bolt you'll be mostly standing up straight and by the 4th you'll be slightly hanging from your arms. Clip the 5th bolt and rest at the massive jugs between the 4th and 5th bolt. The crux is well protected by that 5th bolt and the 6th bolt has a great clipping hold. The climbing eases up to the anchor.

Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism

Shades of Grey

Old World Lullaby

Dull Boy

Unknown

Slabstick to Unknown linkup

Pockets Full O' Chicken Wings

Gym climbers crack.

Glutton for Punishment

House of Cards

Beauty Pageant

No Random Guy Penis

Da Riddler

Drunken Speed Fisherman

Shades of Grey - Left

[Redacted]

Pangs of Ignorance

Resolve

Minus Five

Slabstick

Learning Curve

Smoking Drum

Block Party

Breakin' the Law

Talking Smack

Tickman

Unknown New Route

Crime and Punishment

Dissonance

Magic Carpet Ride

Redolence

Criminal Mischief

Jumanji

Bed Head

Start on a slab ramp to reach some friable vertical rock that leads to a break under the orange overhanging wall.  The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt.  From here, its nice climbing on very sharp pockets and in cut holds.  The rock quality improves by the 2nd bolt.  A good warm up in the sun for some of the harder routes around the corner.

A shorter route on a bulging wall. Great movement and features from crimps to pockets to slopers. Get on it.

Shared start with Sniffing glue then traverse left on crimps and side pulls. After looking at several printed and online sources, half call this 14a and half call it 14b. Most well rounded climbers seem to think it’s a notch easier than breakin the law.

Pull through the initial overhang and trend leftwards through the shallow corner before heading up the easier face to a shared anchor with Da Riddler.

On the far left side of Black and Tan is a small alcove known as the Annex that contains three routes, about thirty feet right of the Annex are a couple of short slabby routes of which this is the right of the two.  This route starts up the easy low angle slab past a few bolts, then pulls a little bit of a steeper (but very well protected) bulge just before the anchors.  The crux is the bulge, but there are great holds, so it stays very easy.  Well bolted and a great route for someone's first lead.

Probably not even worth posting, but from the ground I had assumed that the two routes on the slab between The Annex and the main Black and Tan wall shared the obvious chain anchor about 30 feet off the ground.  I went up the left route (Slabstick) and headed to the anchor of the right route.  This avoids the crux of the left route and pulls the crux of the right route, so the rating stays the same as either route.  Though easy, there is a slight runout (compared to the rest of the bolting on the two routes) getting from the left to the right, so not quite as good of a first lead as either route individually would be.  Climb to the third bolt of the left route, then head right on great holds to the bulge on the right route.

This route has everything.

stick clip recommended. Then well bolted.  Hard start,fun O.W. hand jams,big pockets and mussy hooks. Radical! Dont forget to chicken wing!

The only trad line at the crag... If the approach was longer I would have bolted it.

Climb hand crack then trend left to finger lieback. Crux is protected by a bolt(originally done with out)

A army ring piton protect the start.

Bring your hand jammies crack is sharp!

A long, low-angled, fun climb on sharp limestone. Lots of positive holds, including the edges of a couple of flakes. The rock is rough enough and the climb low-angled enough you could probably smear all the way up if you wanted to.

The routes starts off on the same ramp as Resolve then moves left at the mid station rap anchors, it then climbs above Da Riddler and up some technical vertical climbing to the chains.

Start on 2 decent holds and find a sequence to reach up and establish on a right facing flake (crux).  From here, the climbing eases up substantially to the finish.

This is a bouldery route, and a great intro to the area. A boulder problem starts off the route, leading to some sequential pocket climbing, a rather thin crux, and then easier climbing to the anchor. The crux comes just before the third bolt, where an undercling can be helpful. This route is most definitely a Black and Tan classic.

A left-trending start on good, albeit sharp rock leads to an easier finish.

Just to the left of shades of grey is a line of new bolts painted black.

Pitch 1: Clip the first two bolts on Learning Curve then traverse right clipping bolts as you go. You will pass over the anchor for the 5.13 route Disrepect. Continue moving right until you obtain the anchor on a ledge above the roof, at the base of a dirty corner.

Pitch 2: Climb the corner. Toward the top you will move a little toward the right.

One rappel with a single 60m rope from the top of the climb will get you down to the floor of the cave.

The route starts out on textured sharp brown rock through the first bolt.   Getting to the 2nd bolt is the crux.   From here its nice positive holds and then an easy run to the anchors.

Long slab that gets steeper as you go. Really good movement on sweet features and bomber rock.

The crux is a powerful boulder problem right off the ground.  Followed by great edges and a couple long moves.  There are only three bolts, but they are well placed and it never feels unsafe.

A fun addition to the cliff.   Climb up the shallow dihedral to its end and then figure out the sequence to reach a stance.   Pretty cruiser to the finish.

On the far left side of Black and Tan is a small alcove known as the Annex that contains three routes, about thirty feet right of the Annex are a couple of short slabby routes of which this is the left of the two.  This route starts up the easy low angle slab past a few bolts, then finishes up a flake at the top of the wall for a couple of bolts.  The crux is probably right in the middle of the route where it gets a tiny bit steeper but you don't yet have the flake to use.  Well bolted and a great route for someone's first lead.

This route starts off with some thin moves on the slab. After the first bolt of

Redolence

move to the right and follow the line of bolts that continue up and to the right. Holds are thin and require some thought up until the 4th bolt or so, after which the climb changes personality. More features are available in the little runnels that have formed. The difficulty eases, and the bolts get farther and farther apart up to the ring anchors.

When lowering off this route you will end up 30 feet or more to the right of your belayer. Have a second clean the climb. Don't try to clean this while lowering, or on rappel. You will get some nasty scratches on the sharp rock when you swing.

Grab a jug rail at the start of the roof and either campus out to a second jug rail or use some foot trickery then gain a right hand incut flake and do the crux which involves some crazy tension, toe hooking, and bad bad feet.  From here comes a decent rest on a jug complex with ok feet...rest up because the next 20 feet involves sustained bouldery climbing with big moves to decent holds, although not as hard as the start crux.  Finish up in a harder than it looks dihedral on weird facing holds and an off balance clip. Fight to the top and clip the chains.  Now you can rest.

It completely amazes me that the legendary Boone Speed took the time to establish this forgetable line.  My theory is that he needed something warm for a belay slave to climb while he worked some burly project in the adjacent caves.  This route, and the two lines to it's left (that make up "The Annex") have but one thing going for them: they remain in the sun for a few hours after the rest of crag is in the shade.

Begin above jumbled boulders, and do the crux to gain the route.  If you're able to pull off the ground, the rest of the route will be trivial.  Wander past bushes and choss for a while to reach a poor anchor.

This quintessential Power Endurance line features two back-to-back cruxes low to the ground.  The business boils down to crimping through 10-or-so consecutive moves, some of which are quite powerful.  The rock is flawless and not as sharp as one might expect.  This line was originally conceived and prepped by the visionaries Tim Wagner and Jeff Pedersen.  In 2001, the FA was nabbed without regard to Pedersen's redtag.

A few long but easy reaches leads to a traverse under the roof.  The first crux is a burly lunge to reach good edges at the lip of the roof.  Apparently taller climbers can get a big stem/dropknee here, taking the sting out of the first crux (hence the inevitable internet-hand-wringing over the grade).  After a tenuous clip, make a desparate pull onto the headwall utilizing nasty crimps.  The headwall is mostly trivial, featuring numerous great rests, and relatively big holds, but there is one dicey slab move that will certainly get your attention.

While this route is really only a 10' boulder problem, it’s a really fun boulder problem.  This boulder problem would be a classic V7/8 anywhere in the country.

Start up in the back of the cave on harder than it looks climbing to a jug, relax and jug bash into the roof for a few clips,  Compose yourself and launch into the crux when the jugs run out.  Lot's of foot trickery will be key here.  Snatch the finally decent crimp, clip and shake out on the huge undercling sidepull.  Two more clips of insecure tech fest (but much easier) take you to the anchor.

Fun movement between decent crimps and some jugs. The rock is even more sharp on this side.

This is a new route put up on the left side of Black and Tan. I thought I was getting on the 10a (Crime and Punishment) but this route goes at a more difficult grade.

This route is fairly new, owing to all the fresh drill dust and is not in the guidebooks. Start up the easy grey slab and things get quite vertical once the rock goes orange. Finish on to the large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

Fun route that has good variety of angles from slabbing to slightly overhanging to bulging. Awesome holds.

Start on a slabby face around the corner (see beta photo) and make the first couple of tricky moves to the first bolt. Continue on easier terrain up a narrow rib (some exciting exposure) to a steeper face with good holds. Finish on a nice ledge.

The Todd Goss guidebook lists it as 5.8. I found the first move probably 5.7, the rest of climb was not much harder. The easy middle section on exposed and narrow rib is exciting and adds a nice character to the route.

This pitch starts about half way up the easy slab of Resolve (5.10b). After about 45ft, pull right onto the narrow panel of rock for Magic Carpet Ride.  Subtle and deceiveing moves leads you to a two bolt anchor after about 105ft.  A 70M will get you down, but I didn't test a 60M.

Easy slab route that keeps your attention due to the disastrous consequences of a fall-think motorcycle road rash, then add cayenne pepper. VERY grippy rock, fun moves, most of the holds on this were *heavily* "comfortized", but I wouldn't go so far as to call it chipped. A decent route and a nice option when the moderates at Kelly's Rock are in the sun.

Climb Crime and Punishment and after 5 bolts cut right. Criminal Mischief continues for 5 more bolts to an anchor at the top of the cliff.

You might want to stick clip the second bolt to prevent possible ground fall.   Bouldery start.   Traverse right past 2nd bolt and aim for 3rd bolt out right.   (if you continue straight up its Dull Boy, 5.11d).   Climbing eases up significantly after 3rd bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black and Tan