Californios follows a nice line of heavily featured orange stone, beginning slightly overhanging before slowly trending to a slight slab.  The line is consistently difficult without much of a distinct crux.  Unfortunately the pockets are a bit sharp and the rock is rather crumbly by Wild Iris standards, but this would be a 4-star route at Shelf Road.

Begin up a leaning dihedral to an orange depression, then move left across the bulge on great pockets.  Diminishing pockets keep things interesting until the line slabs out.

Californios

Snowblind

Trixie

Spurs Equal Velocity

All He's Got

Night-Flying Woman

Miss Yvonne Rode the Horse

Whore's Gold

Drink and Wickedness

Lonesome Cowboy

Mutt Ridin Monkey

All He's Ever Gonna Have

Mutt Ridin Monkey is a wonderful route that climbs up a beautiful section of white rock on the right side of the Aspen Glade. The crux comes early between the ground and the second clip. Leaders at their limit should be careful at the second clip because given the bolt spacing, a blown clip will put you very close to the deck (this is fixed...see comments below). That said, the climbing in this section is fun and engaging with sidepulls and pinches; not your standard Iris fare. It is rare to find such a moderate, long route at the Iris and thus I think this route is a real standout (many of the other longish routes are at least 11+).

After the second clip the rock angle slabs out a bit and the leader is blessed with a nearly endless supply of sinker pockets and good rock until a horizontal break at about the height of the big roof that Spurs Equal Velocity climbs through. At this point the route character changes slightly to smaller crimps and feet, though the grade stays moderate. Move up and right clipping the last few bolts and end at nearly the top of the cliff at two huge open cold shuts (though the shuts are open, you can't slip the rope through, so you will have to hang and thread the anchor).

Short and bouldery on small pockets. Begins with a mono and crimp.

The short section of rock between the "Spurs" wall and the "Gun street" wall has 4 great shorter climbs on it. The rightmost route is Trixie which starts with a short jump (or a step off a small pile of rocks) to the starting holds. From here a huge move is made past the first clip (stick clip is nice) to attain a fun/balancy flake system that takes the climber to a bulge. Pull the bulge on nice pockets to reach the anchor.

Among the best of the grade at the Iris, Spurs features flawless, stone multiple cruxes, and a long section of joyous pocket cranking.   Despite its length, the line is quite bouldery, featuring two roof encounters, with the burly crux clearing the second roof with memorable exposure, just below the anchor.

Begin with a tricky mantle to reach the first roof.  Big reaches & jugs gain the stellar slab and a great rest.  Cruise up 5.10 pockets to a good shake below the high roof.  More huge reaches between great pockets gain the lip and a pair of desperate lunges to establish over the lip.

If you have a rope gun with you, for an excellent 5.10 toprope, skirt the low roof via the groove to the right, then move back left to follow Spurs' slabby mid-section to reach the base of the high roof.

Flake to pockets, with a small roof with a big hueco just before the chains.  High crux.

This fun moderate offers excellent jugs on an overhanging, black-streaked wall.  Expect some  big reaches between big holds clearing the bulge.

Begin easily up the gully, then follow a flake to a blank white wall.  Make a thin move to reach the first jug, then huge reaches and perhaps a dyno or two find a big tiered jug.  From here, more pumpy jugs lead to the anchor.

Stick clip the first or second bolt on this one, the crux comes early.   Climb up on marginal pockets and use small feet to reach the second bolt.  From here the difficulty backs down and the pockets get better and better to the finish.

Short but sweet! Climb up good but hard to find pockets to the second bolt. Grab a quick shake and make some hero pulls off of two sinker monos to a good pocket to clip from. Make a couple of thuggy moves to gain good holds to pull the bulge.

This is a really fun route worth doing at the Aspen Glades.

Pull off the ground and come into a good undercling by the first bolt. Make some big moves on OK holds up, and left to 2 finger pockets. Continue up on a few more good 2 finger pockets to the 3rd bolt. Clip and make a huge deadpoint off bad feet to a good 2 finger pocket (crux), and continue up better holds to the top. The climbing eases up substantially, but be prepared for a large runout to the chains.

The crux basically breaks down to one move, but it is quite hard. Bouldery and fun.

A stellar line, featuring some of the best stone at the Aspen Glade, if only it were three times the length.  Regardless, the pockets are so sweet its still worth booting up for.  Stick clip the first bolt for the low crux, then begin slightly left of a brown depression, working back right after the first bolt.  Glorious, long reaches between hero jugs lead up the white panel to an easier finish.

Difficult start leads to great pockets, which continue through a bulge to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Aspen Glade