The Hinge

High Over Beached Whales

Little Ricky

Not Even

Green Burrito

Jumpluff Traverse

Crystal Clear

Diamond Man Dyno

Big Ricky

Paper Boy

Captain Hook Arete

The Pyramid

Pin Scar

Not Even Chips (and reverse)

Knob City

Courtney's side

Roman Engineering

Pin Hole

Ecto the Collector

Hinge Indirect

Faith

Pin Scar Direct

Gather Up

Jelly bean

Diamond Man Extension

Italian Fall

Shark's Tooth

Diamond Man

Anabel

Lieback

Wet Toes

Chips Ahoy

Piss Take

Fale Problem

Hinge Direct

Head Above the Stairs

Baby Ricky

The Layback

Slip and Slide 5.5

Iron Man

Rib Romp

Poodle Press

Nowhere Man

Tin Man

Sand Gully

My Dog Ringo.

C.F.'s Edge Crank

Onion Man

Dave's Problem

The Shelf

Direct start to the Hinge. Pull straight up the arete.

15' right of Iron Man on the right side of the main cave start at a high ledge hold and move up and left on small jugs.

Thin crimps going up the face just right of the stairs.

Route is harder (V4/5) when the sand is low.

This route no longer exists due to rockfall in the area. The route and description remain for historical purposes only!!!

Climb is very dependent on sand levels.

Starts with a move to a big hold and then a bigger move up to the knobs above.

Nice long traverse problem with many variations.

Problem can be done in both directions lending itself to laps for a good pump.

Start on two toothy crimps on the far left of the overhang and traverse across. Get a good right toe-hook on a jug to continue across and match on the toe-hook jug to finish. A bit contrived.

Route goes up the middle of the face to the left of "Anabel".

Most people come in from the right and move up towards the slight cleft at the top.

Getting started can be easy or hard depending on the sand levels.

Route starts from the Diamond Man exit holds starting up the face.

Crux is just getting off the ground if the sand is low.

Start as per "Little Ricky" but move right about halfway on even thinner crimps.

Harder when sand is low.

Sit start deep in the cave right of Iron Man. The line follows the fairly obvious edges and pockets out of the cave and up the face. Once on the face, you have the option of a left or right exit. Both seem to be about the same grade.

This climb is very weather dependent. It is best when the sun or wind has had a chance to dry out this area. The holds can get very wet and gummy if the conditions are not right, making it extremely hard to climb.

Crouch start on 2 chest height juggy knobs on the overhanging arete, or start left hand on either knob and right in your choice of right hand pockets at the same height and make a few hard moves to link up and topout the same as Shark's Tooth.

Starting on the face left of Hinge go up ramp towards "pyramid" shaped jug. Pull up and over.

This route is on the left side of the cave and starts with the obvious "pin scar" hold go straight up.

This problem is often not climbable during high tide.

This route no longer exists due to rockfall in the area. The route and description remain for historical purposes only!!!

Start up Not Even V2 problem then swing over to Arabesque and downclimb Chips Ahoy. Or reverse! Start Chips Ahoy V8 then move over to Not Even V2 top out or downclimb.

This is the route on the left side of the cave that goes up the obvious line of jugs.

This is a relatively easy climb . It's about 11ft high with only about 4 moves with a heal hook as your second move. All the holds can keep only 2-3 fingers in them. The start is a matched under cling then a big left hand bump to a 2 finger hole. Followed up by a high left foot heel hook and bringing your right hand to a 3 fingered ledge. Drop the heel hook and bring your right foot to a small chip by your right knee and bump again to a hight right hand 3 finger crimp. Finish it out by bumping over to right handed ledge just beyond the small shrub. Cons of this climb is it is short. It does have a second half with a over hang that is about 20ft but very dangerous and not recommended. The plus about this climb is it is good for learning foot work and smaller holds. Also there is a V0  made up as well that starts with the same first two moves and traverses around the right side.

Start at the bottom of the arete to the right of Anabel with a good edge for the right and a good jug inthe crack for the left. Work your way up to the good incut on Anable and finish up this route. Neat 3D climbing and trickery!

Route goes straight up at the left "hole". Crux is a balancy move getting above the hole.

This is an extension to the "Onion Man" climb that starts at the base of the route "Gather Up." Start matched on a side-pull sloper at the base of "Gather Up", move your right hand to a crimp by your head, left hand into a mono-finger catch overhead in a dish, then bump/throw out the right hand to merge into "Onion Man." You can get a heel hook on the Onion Man start, match hands on the dihedral and pivot to throw for the final flake hold leading into the top-out.

Start just left of the Hinge at a small roof/jam. Pull through the roof via balancy moves then move left to join Hinge near the top.

Very thin face climb between "Crystal Clear" and "the Layback".

Climb straight up the face on thin holds to join "Barefoot Face Problem".

Route starts up "Pin Scar" then goes right to a big move for a jug.

This is a surprisingly good route with some fun moves.

Route follows the bulge at the left side of the cave with the slab to the left being off-limits.

Pretty good route that doesn't get a lot of traffic.

The crux is right where there is a ledge. You have to heel hook and then mantle up to a jug to the right.

Work the beginning sequence of Diamond Man out of the lip and use a good left hand crimp and a high heel hook to connect the line to Onion Man.

Go straight up the right side of the face just left of Anabel moving left to join Crystal Clear near the top.

Start as per "Italian Fall" then move up right from the halfway point.

Starting in cave at same location as Iron Man, head out left on smaller holds going up between Iron Man and Onion Man.

It starts in the middle cave that faces out into the harbor. The cave usually has graffiti in it. Stem up to the roof, under-cling the big slopey horn, reach for the two knobs, then slap the jug and hang on for a big swing. It's sort of reachy but also one of the best problems at Pirate Cove.

Lieback the corner using the arete for hands and the left slab for feet.

Good beginner problem to get people started.

This problem starts just right of "Poodle Press" at the two mini-jugs just below the biggest side-pull crack.

Traverse to "Pin scar" (to the left) by using a gaston move at the obvious crack and go straight up.

This route no longer exists due to rockfall in the area. The route and description remain for historical purposes only!!!

This climb goes up the arete just left of Not Even. Left wall is off.

Start with hands on each side of the arete using slopers on each side for the start. Follow the arete up to a right hand pinch and a high left crimp. This will allow you to pull into a good rail on the outer face of the arete. From here you can grab a loaf just above the rail and shoot for a small knob/undercling. From the undercling use a couple thin rails to pull yourself up and out.

This climb can also be done from a sit start.

Start low on a good crimp & a few finger pockets. Make a long move out right to a small ledge with distinct dimples for your hands. From there start to move up and left on ok crimps with a couple of jugs & finish on two opposing jugs right before the crack on the left. This climb does not top out, but there is potential for a very tricky/awkward top out.

Problem 5' left of The Hinge starts with undercling/jam and moves straight up through the area of the large hole.

Start as per the Hinge heading right when you can reach the ledge holds.

The crux is keeping your head as you move right on sandy holds over the guardrail.

Go up the obvious Jugline right of the stairs traversing right to left and then doing a mantle move onto the slab.

Easy layback problem just left of the Face Problems.

Good practice for beginners.

This is in Craig Fry's Book, "Southern California Bouldering Guide" 2nd ed., 1995.

The first crux is getting over the "second ramp". That's the hardest part, but the second crux is at the top. It definitely sucks for shorter climbers. The last hold is a jug but be careful! It probably hasn't been tested for holding body weight.

If you know the FA'er or the original name, let me know!

Sit start in the middle of the cave system halfway between the stairs and the other side of the beach. This problem climbs a short roof section with lots of foot beta then goes out onto the face to finish up on jugs. Very fun unique moves.

Starts on the face left of Hinge and goes up the far left line over a couple of horizontal dikes.

This problem starts just right of "Pin Scar" following the sidepull crack up the wall.

The climb starts below tin man (V0), in the cave to the right of the stairs. The crux is in the middle section, in which you maneuver through slopers and sloper crimps to good jugs at the end.

Route starts just right of Iron Man and does some tricky stem moves up the usually dirty gully.

This route is between Poodle Press and City Ordinance Crack.

Start up the obvious well chalk up lieback. Instead of going left on Poodle Press go right putting your left hand into a hole with good fingers locks.  With your right hand you are going for shelf at the bottom of the crack. The shelf is going to be sandy, a couple quick brushes with your hand will clean it up.  Now simply lieback up the crack until you can hand jam. You will be a little off the deck with solid hand jams. The crack will be sandy and dirty after rains.  Exist left as soon as possible.

Start as per Head Above the Stairs but instead of going right from the edge holds, go straight up with a big move to a sandy hold.

Starts from the large hold towards the left side of the wall above the cave.

A big move up right gets you started then straight up from there.

Starting at the face left of Hinge. Go up the middle line through jugs and horizontal dikes.

Start route with a reach (or jump) to a large ledge hold. Move up and right on small jugs.

Description

Routes in Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)