Named as a reminder of a bad fall I witnessed on the Bridger Jacks.  Wear your helmets, folks.

Pitches 1 and 2:  Same as for Sideways Sandworm. Once you are on the belay ledge above pitch 2, set up as though you were going to do the third, traversing pitch of Sideways Sandworm.

Pitch 3:  Move left from the belay, but do not cross the chimney.  Move up, either using the chimney (unprotected, muddy, and too wide to squeeze, too narrow to stem) or the hands - wide hands crack system just right of the chimney that climbs the tall detached block standing in the corner.  The block appears stable, but a fall on gear placed in the crack is not advised, and is the reason for the 'R' rating.  Follow the corner to the top with mostly hands, some thin hands, some wide hands, and a bit of fingers.  (5.10 R)

The corner tops out immediately below a bolted rap station.  Two raps to the ground using one 70 meter rope.

A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts

Thog's Neolithic Rocket Ship

Sideways Sandworm

Devil May Care

Disappearing Person

Climb the edge of the detached triangular flake.  Start with thin hands that widen to cupped hands or even fists at the top.  Would make a fun first lead.

Do not climb or place cams above the anchor - The top of the flake is a loose block about the size of your car's engine.  You can see the hairline fracture that goes all the way around.

Devil May Care is a short (70') but high quality face climb. USDA prime Wingate the whole way. A rarity, a desert face climb with natural gear. Long approach, but cool route and cool location. Start the climb on the (shorter) west side from an obvious shoulder. Mantel up and left, step right, up a brief dihedral to a ledge. Continue pretty much straight up, passing good but scattered placements in pockets and horizontal cracks. The third large band is the crux. The moves here are harder for those much under five-foot-ten. Once committed, a fall would not be very long, but would probably involve an ankle-biting ledge. Gets easier above here. Nice summit, with great views out over Moab.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 120 ft)  Scramble up to a small ledge to access the obvious squeeze chimney crack.  Inside the squeeze chimney is a handcrack.  Climb the handcrack, negotiate your way past a few large (solid) chockstones, and tunnel deeper through the chimney until you arrive at a large hidden ledge behind the cliff face.

Pitch 2 (5.11a, 110 ft)  Walk left from the belay to the obvious #4 crack that continues up the portion of the pillar that is detached from the main rim cliff.  Climb the crack to where the rock becomes soft and loose.  Continue up past this loose band of rock to more solid climbing in a corner where two large cracks converge to create some fantastic geometry.  Optional belay here to reduce rope drag.  Climb the corner where the two cracks come together, either by stemming or using the offwidth crack in back.  Above this, the rock becomes loose and delicate again, so dance cautiously up the next 30 feet to the summit of the pillar.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Disappearing Devil