This ascends the south face of Argonaut peak. Approach from the south (see the main page). Start in a short left facing corner and follow your nose to the summit. Rock quality is great, except for some potentially lose blocks near the bottom.

South Face

Northwest Arete

From the north basin below Argonaut, ascend a snow finger (some loose, dirty rock transitions in late season) to the Southwest, reaching a notch at the base of the Northwest Arete.

The route is done in roughly 5-7 pitches.

Pitch 1-2:  From the col climb down, then up through the tree.  Climb up blocks back toward ridge crest.  Follow easy ground a ways over blocks and up a right-facing corner to easy ground and a nice stance at the base of a steeper face.

Pitch 3: Go up a little and do a diagonal traverse up and rightwards, working up ledges, then straight up to good ledges.  Move the belay to the left along this ledge system.

Pitch 4: Choose a desired path up this next step (a easy ramp up and to the right, followed by a tricky move up went for us), then move across easy ground, reaching the highest large ledge.

Pitch 5: From the belay, climb up a steep corner with good holds.  This section looks improbable for mid 5th class, but is all there, with good protection, and is the best climbing on the route.  Finish below another right-facing corner that looks more steep and blank.

Pitch 6: Cut diagonally up and relatively hard right here on easy terrain to a flake you can au cheval, then a tricky move to a good ledge.

Pitch 7: Choose either the corner system straight above you or the next corner system over to the right.  If you choose the one on the right, make sure to swing back left rather than heading straight for the skyline.  This right option is pretty mellow.

Scramble to the summit.

From the summit, continue east, through a notch and down the Northeast face and snowfield down to a notch on the East ridge.  Do one single-rope rap to the East, then traverse skier's left (North) and down a short, loose gully (rap is possible here) until you can cut through a notch back onto the East face where two more single rope raps get you to the slopes near the Argonaut-Colchuck col.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Argonaut Peak