Start on the regular start of Deception but continue straight up the hand crack instead of moving out left. Climb up till you run out of rope and belay. Pitch two goes past a short (15ft)thin section that can be protected by RPs. Belay at the large flake and ledge then continue up the regular route or go over the bulges to the right for a little more fun.

Deception Direct

Harvey's Wallbangers, Right

Harvey's Wallbangers Left

Dancing Feet

Wave Rider

Knapsack Crack

Spam Sandwich

Deception

Manic Depressive Direct

Reds Delight

Harvey's Wallbangers, Center

Deception shares the same start as Deception Direct, which takes the obvious vertical crack which goes up the entire formation, to the right/west of Knapsack.

Start up the crack in the corner, and once it becomes feasible to mantle up to the left, do so, and continue up and belay on a blocky ledge.  If you miss the obvious mantle/traverse and head straight up, you're on deception direct, which has a thin 5.9 rp protected crux.

2nd pitch goes up, traverses left to a crack which parallels the first crack.  Continue up this crack for a long way, then make an exciting 5.6 crux slab smear traverse to rejoin the original crack, and belay on the ledge.

3rd pitch pulls some blocky 5.6 mantles to the summit, short.

More Sustained than the Center route.  Pretty strait forward.  First pitch has a lot of easy lay back and face.  Crux section is on the short, if you belay about 180' from the start, second pitch.  Two bulges with good hands.

The left crack. Start same as Harvey's Wallbangers Center.

Just right of Deception lies this old school, runout face. The cruxy second pitch is runout and sustained 5.10.

The next pitch is also 10(c) and is a bit run as well. Take small wires, rps, thin cams and some runners.

Low angle dike climbing with a little friction thrown in for good measure. The direct start begins directly below a thin right flacing flake. The crux is one unprotected friction move to reach the flake. Plug in some small pro, then climb runout, but easy, dikes to the anchor. You can place medium cams in a hidden pod to the right of the dikes.

The original start is farther right at a pine. Head up a crack then traverse left to an old bolt. Continue moving left and up until you can reach the flake mentioned above. The climbing above becomes easier as more dikes appear. Belay at the bolted anchor about 20 or 30 feet right of "Manic Depressive's" crack.

You have two options for the second pitch. Traverse left on dikes and finish "Manic Depressive." Or (more fun) climb up and right across smooth friction to reach a rectangular block. Above this block, follow the finger crack through the small overlaps until upward progress is blocked by a roof. Make an easy traverse left to join "Manic Depressive." The second pitch does not have an "R" rating.

Start below a lone tree on the east side of Hogsback.  The first pitch ends at the tree and is very easy.  From the tree the second pitch contains some 5.5 moves, but due to the low angle of the rock it doesn't feel that way.  A 60 m rope gets you from the tree to the end of the second pitch.  Use a 50 m and you will be belaying from the crack itself.  Not that this is a bad thing as it helps to build confidence in belaying without a ledge.

The third pitch is again very easy to climb and protect.  Upon reaching the top, walk off to the left to return to more climbs or to head for climbs at the Leap.

Starts up a slab just to the right of Knapsack, under a large tree.  Climb easy, low angle slab until it starts to get steeper where you can clip a bolt (first pro) that is about 50ft up, then make a few 5.7 friction moves past the bolt and follow the crack on the right to the ledge and up between two bushes to the fixed pins (that are smashed in a flake, hard to see) belay here.

(Pitch two) Move up and ever so slightly left following cracks and hidden gear placements to a bolt that protects a short traverse into some cracks. Move up under a small roof (look for the pin - pin may be gone) then climb strait up thin cracks and dikes to another bolt. Follow the thin cracks up past a few more small bulges to another bolt then move up and left to easier climbing up a flake and make a gear anchor where you can(there are a couple of nice ledges).

A short easy pitch leads to the top.

Pitch 2 and 3 could be linked together with a 70m rope.

This route starts on an easy slab just to the left of Deception. Belay just to the left of the first belay of Deception. From here, move out left on the slabs along a small roof and up to a series of three bolts that protect the crux slab moves. Now move into a right facing corner (decent pro) then up into a left facing corner where you need to set up a belay just under the 4 ft (mantle) roof. Now mantle the roof, work your way over some easy slab and over a few easy bulges to the top. Kinda runout but acceptable. Good practice for slab.

The traverse on P1 is a tad brushy... You'll know you're on Center when you do this traverse. Going straight up would take you onto Harvey Wallbangers Right.

Description

Protection

Routes in North Face