A tough little devil that will knock you around a bit if you are new to OW but it protects well with large cams... Basically hop up in there and an heel-toe, grunt, knee-jam, chicken wing and maybe bleed to the top... Or if you are an off-width ace use this as a fun warm up...

Muscle Shoals

Rocket Man

Rock Rash

Grand Illusion

Close Encounters with a Wench

Mama Told Me Not To Come

When Gravity Fails

Bloody Fingers

Coup De Graus

Casual Corner

Woman Trouble

Carnivorous

Punch Myself

Surfin' With Grizz

wide dihedral around the corner to the left of Muscle Shoals. you can walk into the crack and look out of Muscle Shoals! some loose flakes at top.

In my opinion this is the most striking line at Muscle Beach. You can't miss this splitter fist crack and offwidth.

It starts out as a hand crack, quickly widens and never stops. By the time you get to the ledge you will need a skin (or tape) transplant and it may be easier just to bail and skip the upper "pitch." It looks hard for the grade anyway!

Another typical Muscle Beach crack...as usual, don't let the grade fool you. Use some jamming trickery or boulder your way through the tough opening move and the relax (well, sort of) through armbars and good fist jams up the rest of route.

This is the second to last dihedral to the right of the wall.  The climb before Bloody Fingers.  Fairly thin but good holds and nice stems on the faces.  Cruxy bit is at the top pulling around the wide section to the anchors.  A friend of mine put his body into the wide spot and had real trouble getting out.  I stayed outside of it and clipping the anchors was no problem

Starting off a large boulder under a roof, work your way above the roof crack to where it's more vertical. Arm bar, chicken wing, fist jam your way up. There are rap anchors on a ledge off to the climbers left, or you can continue climbing to the top and anchor off some trees. Finish is easier but still holds some interest.

This is a thin crack in an obtuse dihedral. You could almost call it a flake, but it is actually more of a dihedral. The rock is a fantastic orange color and if you do this route in the fall you'll get the added benefit of brilliant red leaves on the vines that cover the face to the right.

Climb the crack, using the crack on the face at your own risk, to a ledge. There is a nice variation of moves on this route.

The cons are some sand up high and softer rock than normal. The route seems to protect best with cams, passive gear is trickier. The top anchor situation isn't ideal, you have to build a gear anchor off to the left and try to create a directional for the second. It's really hard to set this route up as a slingshot TR.

This is a nice splitter handcrack between Surfin' With Grizz and Mama Told Me...

There is a bulge up high, and a heady finish. The crack is a little rough, but the jams are great.

All in all a very fun route.

Scruble up a slaby ramp that is pretty easy.  The crux is about 15 feet from the top in the dihedral.  Stemming seemed more difficult as my partner had some trouble with it.  I did more of a layback style move up it and had little trouble.

The bouldery finger-crack to the right of Muscle Shoals. Start by pulling bouldery moves in the shallow and a bit sandy first 10 or so feet of the crack, take advantage of a decent stance, and then finesse and tech your way through the remains slightly-more-than-vertical finger-locks till you get to the ledge where you can traverse left to the bolted anchors above Muscle Shoals.

Awkward, dirty offwidth to start. Make your way from the offwidth onto a flake at the right side of the left-facing dihedral. Continue to stem your way up through the wide dihedral to reach a tree from which you rappel from.

Fairly standard, straightforward Muscle Beach type of a route: a vertical fist (or bigger) crack. Not large enough to start putting your body in.

This route climbs face next to a crack to a tricky exit onto a ledge. The second pitch is a short, easy face that can be climbed a few different ways and puts you on a nice picturesque summit. The route is fun.

The day of the FA I was bouldering nearby and heard a familiar voice. It was another local, Rick Faulkner.

I hollered to Rick and said, What are you on? He hollered back, Woman Trouble! (another route at the wall) I hollered, No, youre not! He responded, Then I guess its a first ascent.

I hiked over and joined them. I went back later and climbed the route to the top of the wall.

The crack is a left facing flake type feature that goes to a ledge.

This is a low angle obtuse dihedral with a good sized tree growing out of it up high. The start is an offwidth/chimney but the remainder of the crack is more of a handcrack.

Not a bad little beginner lead. Some might disagree, but it was one of my first trad leads and didn't scar me too bad.

Nice exposure at the top.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall