Start off of a rock to avoid getting mud on your  climbing shoes. Campus through the first few moves until you can get your feet on, then continue onto the ledge. This ledge is a good resting place before you embark on the serious end of the climb.  Clip the draw on the roof before you leave the ledge. From a huge flake bust out a dynamic reach to a slopey ledge to begin the crux. With some interesting foot beta continue through slopers until you reach the a good resting hold  at about 25 feet. From here, the climbing is easier, but you'll be dealing with the pump from the moves below.   Note: The crux is proving to be height dependent

Luc Skywalker

My Fuzzy Balls

Fruit Loops

Sara's crack

Orange Crush

Pee Green

Grunge Fest

New Tatoo

Pagan on Sunday

Say No To Bush

Hot For Teacher

I Wish my Girlfriend was this Dirty

Nocturnal Emissions

The Amateur

Dodo Bird

Delusions of Grandeur

Wet Dreams

Spread Your Eagle

Smarty Pants

Wham Bam Thank You Ma’am

Don't Push It

Dicken Around

Delusions of Grunger (Link Up)

Chossy climb into roof. Go towards the right for a HUGE pullover.

Climb slopey face to ledge above. Finish on large boulder above

Just to the right of Dodo Bird Overhanging arête with big jugs.

Very fun climbing on colorful rock! This is listed in the new Jamestown guide book but not in the Arkansas guide book. It is listed as 10b in the book but we didn't think it was any harder than Hot for Teacher. 

About 20 feet to the right of Froot Loops Climb face moving left after 2nd bolt pull overhang to anchors.

About 10 feet to the right of Wet Dreams. Climb steep overhanging arête pull roof.

About 10 feet to the right of The Amateur. Face climb with big holds.

30 Feet right of Exodus and left of small scramble is this tall jug haul.

About 5 foot to the right of Crawford Village Idiot. Climb on sloppy holds near top pull crimpy moves to sloppy finish.

Climb slight overhanging arête and pull overhang on big jugs to anchors. 30 feet past Pagan on Sunday

This is the anomaly on the Wet Dreams wall, the crux isn't solely at the roof, the climbing throughout the route is solid 5.11. Make a long reach out of the roof, then campus bump to a decent jug. Clipping the chains is a bit of a task on this route and footwork here is key.

Fun face to a roof made of underclings. A surprisingly good pocket past the roof leads to a kinda sloping ledge for clipping the anchors. 

  Looking for other opinions on grade. It may be pretty height dependent.

Around the corner to the right of Dont Push It (kind of behind a small tree) Climb face jugs to anchors.

About 15 feet to the right of Say No To Bush Climb overhanging face to anchors.

Awesome 5.11 climbing up to the roof, pull a big dynamic move beginning the top crux. Continue into the roof, and make a desperate clip from a terrible hold. Moves continually get harder until you clip off the finishing jug.

About 50 feet to right of Three Amigos. This route is behind a big boulder sitting on a ledge. Climb steep face to roof. There is a hanging draw left under the roof. Mega Classic

About 20 feet to the right of Comedy Crack. Climb prominent arête to exposed rock great views fun climb.

Scramble up the sloping ramp where you can clip the first bolt. Pull the overhang and enjoy straightforward climbing that steepens at the top. Good holds the whole way.

Across from Pee Green and Dicken Around on a north facing wall (kind of behind a boulder block LOOK for it). Stay on face to the right of the bolts good holds finish off on big jugs to anchors. Anchors are on ledge.

Shares bottom 2 bolts with Pee Green Move right after 2nd bolt until roof at roof go left of bolts stay left until 2nd small roof then go right of roof to anchors. If you stay straight on it is freaking hard and has yet to be done.

This link up starts on Grunge Fest, 5.11c, climbs the first 6 bolts to the shelf and then traverses up and left through the top 3 bolts and anchors of Delusions of Grandeur, 5.12b.  It is significantly pumpier than Delusions of Grandeur.

Nice area of the crag with many nice moderates and a couple amazing harder lines.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Amateur Route Area