Fun well protected climbing on clean steep rock. Moderate start with 1st bolt at about 15', crux at 8th bolt (a little swing if you blow it). Cool quartz crystals (which make good holds thank you) nearing the anchors.

Science Project

Strangehold

Captain Dinghy

Lone Pine

Sarlacc

Wild Rumpus

This route is really good. Start in the cave and boulder out left to a good hold. Make a few strenuous clips then move right on slopers. 2 big deadpoints in a row to massive hero jugs present the crux of the route. Pull onto a small ledge and get a shake. A few moves on good but smaller holds lead to a short finger crack. Here you make a tricky traverse left and up to the chains. The foot holds are good but it's tricky when you’re pumped and the fall is a swing, so get a shake in before the finish. 

Wicked pissah route. Good steep rock with jugs right where you want them. The crux seems to be at 3/4 height.   Start on the top of a pointed block next to the clean grey face and make an easy first clip. Head straight up for a few bolts then trend right toward a foot wide ramp/flake with a beautiful finger crack protected by 2 bolts. At right end of ramp head straight up passing bulges on jugs to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Step off the small horn, clipping the first bolt and making a large move to a good jug. Continue up the bolt line, clipping 6 total bolts. Step left into a right running ramp and as the difficulty eases off, continue up, placing small gear (.3-.4, tricams useful) and continue up the face, ending at a short, slightly overhanging handcrack to a tree anchor. Rap cord replaced 8/2020. 70m needed if rapping off. 

You drove to Maine, but somehow you're climbing on a schist version of New River Gorge. Physical, juggy cruxes on steep rock. Bolts right where you need them. Exciting but safe falls. A perfect rock climb.Scramble up to get the first two bolts clipped, and then use an undercling to pull into the first crux. Reach a good rest, clip the fixed chain, and then launch into the burly undercling crux with smears for feet. Take in the sit-down rest and the nice view of Shell Pond before launching into the heartbreaker top out. This route is so good!

A spectacular looking route.Start by scrambling up easy rock in an alcove. Break left at the first bolt, stepping around the overhanging right-facing corner, and onto the face. Enjoy interesting climbing up to the crux on the second bulge. Head left at the huge roof, enjoy spectacular jug hauling high off the deck, and reach the anchor. You can just barely lower off with a 60M rope. Tie a knot in the end of your rope to be safe.

The Main Wall is a steep to overhanging, high quality schist cliff with mostly sport routes 5.10-5.12. Most of the routes do not go to the top of the cliff so top-roping would be difficult. Routes have 2 bolt rap anchors. A 60 meter rope will work on most raps, a 70 meter on all. Some routes can be climbed on rainy days.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in High Meadow Wall