This rig is still cleaning up a bit... we pulled off a big hold today ;) It is kind of an unoriginal name....

Pull up on crimps to a roof, clip a LONG draw to the first bolt, then commit to some reachy moves up and right, following a thin horizontal crack above a roof. Reach left to clip the second bolt, then fire up some sequential compression moves until you reach jugs and a big stance.

The second half of the route is only 5.9 or so and a little dirty, but it has good rock. The route needs a little more traffic! The bouldery first half is really good and worth doing.

Whiskey

New Climb

Crotch Rocket

Iron Horse

Liquor Up Front

Johnny Cash

Shovel Head

Crazy Horse

Pan Head

Rice Rocket

Softtail

Poker in the Rear

Gerald's Tail (unknown)

Begin with thin, bouldery moves off the ground - a stickclip is recommended. The second clip is also a bit dicey, so maybe save this until you're solid at the grade.

After that, the climbing mellows a bit, but there is still a move or two up high. This is not the best route on the wall, but it may be worth it if you're here. Crazy Horse is much better, IMO.

Climb sweet edges and jugs into the corner under the roof. Clip around the roof, and pull through and establish yourself on a rail-type feature and corner (crux). More positive holds and crystal nubs take you to the top.

Work up the broken face using positive ledges galore. This shares anchors with

Rice Rocket

.

Liquor Up Front is a well-protected, mixed gear and bolt route. The first 30 feet is well protected by cams/wires.

Start as for

Poker in the Rear

, but step right rather than left at the start of the upper slab climbing. Finish on steep jugs to the anchors.

Scramble up a slab to a good ledge before entering a shallow crack system just left of a large roof. Work up and left to a rust colored panel of stone beneath a cracked roof. Pull the fabulous roof to a 2 bolt anchor.

"Climb the face via lichen covered flakes."

The start is up a steep face, and the crux is through a bulge using a pinch, undercling move.

Start in the crack system down low before clipping bolts on a vertical face. This is continuous and pumpy.

Stem, jam, and crank your way up a left-leaning corner system on positive holds. Great movement ends with a sweet view.

Softtail is a ledgy climb with a few exposed moves. It is the left bolt line that follows the corner.

Begin with easy climbing to a high first bolt. This can be protected with a cam if you want to, but it is not too heady.

Poker in the Rear is a well-protected, mixed route.

It has about 30 feet of moderate climbing leading to 7 or so bolts of slabby climbing above.

The crack down the middle of the face has many places for mid-sized gear or there are a few different seams you can use on the large flake to the left, although it's a little chossy.

The guidebook has this route at 80', but there wasn't a lot of rope to spare with a 60m, so it's probably closer to 90'.

It is a little bit dirty, but it is a good route! There are lots of different ways/gear you can use at the start.

There is a variation of this route that splits off right after you get over the ledge that leads to a different set of anchors. The variation is also ~5.9 and would be a rope stretcher with a 60m rope.

This shares a first bolt with

Softtail

and then goes right on steep face climbing with good holds.

The name and grade are unknown.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roadside Crag