This is the most obvious approach to the Plaque face. Start at the base of the nose, then step right and immediately confront the crux--several difficult and treacherous moves on slopers and rounded grooves. Definitely back up the pin with a small cam in the vertical just to the right. You can also get gear in the horizontal below. A few moves higher move right to the gully, then back left to an overhang on the left side of the nose. A bolt and small cam protects the layback moves over the hang. Easier climbing leads to a large tree. Belay at the tree, or continue up and right to the ledge at the base of the Plaque. There are bolts and rings at the center of the Plaque to rap or, highly recommended, continue up and right and set a trad belay to continue on Plaque Right.

Lower Plaque Nose

The on ramp

Plaque Right

Might as Well Jump

Necronomicom Direct

The Zebra

Back Scratcher Start

An easier alternative to other moderate routes. Good for learning to place gear. This is like a big ramp near the left base of the cliff that goes up and left, located right between 2 5.9s  lower plaque nose and plaque right on. There is only one other climb to the left of it.

Persevere past the intimidating start to easier very fun and exposed climbing to the top. This route climbs the right edge of the Plaque at the right side of Second Grotto Wall. The crux start through the A-shaped overhang is protected by 2 pins well backed up with cams. Strenuous move on hand jams and big holds swing you out left onto the face. Follow the arête, sometimes right on the arête and sometimes just left, to the top past 3 more pins. There are a couple of mildly runout sections, but the climbing there is relatively easy and secure.

Might as Well Jump is a fun climb that is worth doing if you've made the trip to the crag, on par with

The Zebra

. This has sustained difficulty, but there are plenty of opportunities for rest including a no-hands rest at the intermediate anchor. The namesake move happens in first half, and I thought the crux was in the first half. The extension adds more climbing but does not make the route any harder. If doing the extension, traverse left after clipping the knifeblade, do a cool leg-hook on the left side of the roof to reach the next bolt, and turn the roof.

You will NOT reach the ground with a 70m, but we did reach the lower slabs which were easy enough to downclimb. It is reachy climbing for the first two bolts. Stick-clipping the second bolt from the intro slabs would have been nice.

This is the pumpy, overhanging, hand crack after the 1st pitch of "Necronomicom". It has good jams and exposure!

150 feet of glory, The Zebra follows a prominent line up the center of the second Grotto over angular holds at first, followed by a beautiful headwall up high.

Begin on a slab with twin cracks to a high first bolt about 25 feet up. This section can be protected with a few cams if you feel inclined. After the first bolt, make a funky mantle, trending right to gain the base of the first headwall and the beginning of the route. Clip the second bolt from a good sidepull, then follow a line of perma-draws through angular jugs and fun body positions. At around 100 feet, the line of nicely spaced perma-draws make an abrupt stop where you encounter a spooky, runout traverse leading to the second headwall out right. Clip two more fixed draws at the base of the second headwall, then continue up using your own draws to the anchors. For full value, you can top out and make your best effort to look like rocky after climbing the Rocky Steps at the Philly Art museum.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Second Grotto Wall