Originally called 5.10c in Randy's Original Guide, this climb was sketchy, and originally done with a piton that is long gone.  The route has been retro-fitted for your pleasure and convienence, your safety and enjoyment. A bolt has been addend;...maybe two.  The anchor was sketchy too, and that also has been "modernized". The climbing is now not so scary, and as the fear level was reduced, the climbs true rating could be realized. This route is located on a squat boulder called Dweeb Spire.

Disobedience School

Jesus Saw You Take It

This route is mostly an aid route, but it does have a few free moves at the end.  The climb traverses out under a huge dark black cave/roof, using natural gear, and a bolt and fixed pin too. Turn the big roof on a couple of bolts, then clip a few fixed pins and fixed copperheads, then follow a crack up and right to a few free moves to a dike to finish the route off.  Most of the tricky placements are fixed, and the crux on the first ascent was hand drilling a few aid bolts hanging upside down out the big roof! Watch for rope drag.  Joshua Tree has many excellent "practice" aid climbs;  this is one of them.  Walk off to the right.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Snickers - West Face