Bouldery start up to shallow corner (small left facing). Traverse after 4th or 7th bolt 5.9) to the bolted arete. A longer draw may lessen rope drag at this bolt.  Finish directly on the arete.  Worthy variation. 

  Good option if you have no SLCDs to finish Stinky Finger.

Utopian Vistas (var.)

Dancing on Stones

Klein's Corner

Hopper's Hangover

Stinky Finger

Tijerina

Earthship (aka Garbage Warrior)

Easy Rider Crack

Black is Beautiful

Forever Jung

Negra Bonita (Black Beauty)

Traverse under roof to clip third bolt and then crank off of shallow tips to high left rib. This should make you hurl. Enjoy a hands free rest at next bolt and set up for the sustained pockets of the classic arete finish on Utopian Vistas.

Cool slab climbing to start and overhanging edges to finish.  Start up awkward, blocky terrain to the high first bolt on the clean face. Figure out the undercling/tension move to get fully committed to the slab moves. Grope around left-ish feeling for anything that might help you pull through the slabby moves past the second bolt (crux) and into the blockier terrain above. Tread lightly on the big ledge so as to not knock any big blocks off and continue straight up the steep arete above to the top.  

  Watch between the third & fourth bolt...this is where you dance.

Start in the same right facing corner as Tijerina and then move left after the fourth bolt (long runner).  Climb the dihedral and make crux moves through the roof. Excellent rock, continuous moves. Rick Klein was one of the founders of the New Buffalo Commune and the back-to-the-land movement in 1960s Taos and now is a fixture in the Jenny Vincent Trio.

Same start as Utopian Vistas but this variation finishes with upper off-width trad crack to chain anchors.  Bouldery start up to shallow corner (Left facing). Crux is sustained upper section of corner from 4th to 7th bolt. "Stinky Finger" was Lady Brett's nickname for D.H.Lawrence. Rumor has it that Frieda uncovered his infidelity by this olfactory clue.

Climb left through large roof on pinned blocks and follow into shallow overhanging corner.  Continue straight up the right side of the roof. Crux as you climb onto thin arete above corner. Athletic moves and nice exposure bring you to the anchor.  

  Arise Alianza you have nothing to lose but your chains... Reies López Tijerina led a struggle in the 1960s and 1970s to restore New Mexican land grants to the descendants of their Spanish colonial and Mexican owners.

V slot right of Easy Rider Corner.  Start as for Easy rider but move right at bolt. 

  Can be done without bolts but we felt bottom was loose and poorly protected.  R/X.   

  Base has bolted face route project 5.13 will be variation start for Earthship.  

youtube.com/watch?v=2KYJ0ds…

A sustained hand crack on right wall of overhanging corner. Excellent jamming with frequent stances, stems and face holds. Few chockstones and flake in crack solid on first ascent (helmets wise)

Nice crack climbing up the obvious black crack just left of Dancing on Stones.

Climb into large slot with rubble at base, stem onto high step and up under roofs. 

Short crack through roof with tricky crux after turning roof.

East facing wall of high quality pocketed basalt to about 65 ft. Tight concentration of sport and trad lines.  Many overhanging pocketed walls. Can find shade under Hopper's Hangover most hours of the day.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall