Instead of doing some weird contrived bullshit on nogales, just go straight up the most obvious crack. Yes, this include going through the offwidth at the top

over hanging offwidth

Triple Roofs

Riding on an Incline

Something Sporting

Humble's Tumble

Sabbatical

White Flake

Psycho Driller

Greater Eighter

Forgotten Trails

Easy Corner

Finer Niner

Provo

Nogales

Tennish Anyone?

This route is on the East side of the

Lower Breadloaves

AKA

Provo Wall

.  Although you can park at the West side of the

Breadloaves

parking lot and hike around, it is easier to park near the campsite, cross the road, and hike up the hill. This route is in a corner with a trough and has an obvious bulge you must climb around about 3/4 the way up.

This climb starts out with a thin hand crack. Climb up around a bulge and then move out onto a pocketed face of easy climbing. Rappel by scrambling down to the right and using

Something Sporting

anchors.

Located near the left side of the wall, below the obvious triple roofs.  The climb wanders through the roofs on very good gear.  The moves stepping right below the large roof are very good.  Route shares the same anchor as

Tennish Anyone?

, which are found little low and right of the finnish.

Climb begins at the bottom of a small slope leading down from a large boulder.  Start climb by making difficult bouldery moves to get off the ground (crux). After the start the difficulty backs off and offers great climbing at around the mid-10 range.  A cam or stopper may be useful gaining the 2nd/3rd? bolt, but is not required.

Easy ramblin' to a whacky roof thing.

Saves the best for last...

Perhaps the best looking crack on the wall, from afar.  Then you get closer and it gets wider and longer. If you like OffWidth, that's fine, otherwise it starts loosing stars. I happen to be down with it, so it is as good as it looks.  Remarkably, the climbing is mostly solid and with the use of some face holds. Not only does it fall short of being a "5.9d" like the book suggests, it may be perhaps even soft at the grade of 5.9 overall.

A good route overall. The climb starts in an interesting low-angle slot behind a thin flake, then steps out right to a few bolts (crux) on this flake before climbing up the face on the right side of the left-facing corner with big moves between big plates.  Up top you can place gear in horizontals, but the upper part of the climbing is moderate and secure and it may not feel necessary. 100' to a set of chain anchors.

White Flake

is a good way to get things going if visiting the

Provo Wall

. Containing a variety of climbing styles, this route warms up the body and mind while stimulating the senses.

Start climbing in the smooth left-facing dihedral. Using various techniques work your way to the crux which sits about half way up at a bulge. Pass this stricture and gain the routes token feature, a large, hollow, detached flake. Climb this to its end and finish out the remaining fifteen feet in a hand size crack.

A fun route with good gear and a comfortable amount of insecurity.

Located just left of Sabbatical/Humble Tumble, and begins behind the same large boulder.  Start climb by climbing onto a short rock point below a flat roof.  Clip the bolt located just above the lip of the roof.  Using a locking carabiner here may be better than a draw, since it could keep you off the rock point if you fall on the next moves.  Now make a very balancy mantle.  The next part of the climb sports the so called double hands dyno on a slab.  Although this may be true if your shorter, by using delicate foot work the dyno can be missed.  Now continue for some distance with no bolts.  The climbing is very easy here (5.6/5.7), but a sling may be useful for slinging a few chicken heads.  Finally finish with a short steep finish past a few more bolts to the anchor.

Pass a low bolt then run out easy ground with optional small cam placements. The mid-way roof has a hidden monster jug at the lip and requires some monkey action to reach moderate climbing to a muzzy hook anchor.

This is the heavily textured face to the left of

Provo

. It begins up the shared crack, but breaks left towards a mini-roof and climbs awkward features up the face. Beautiful from the ground, don't be surprised if you're cursing this line a few moves in...

Start using small gear up the nice crack to gain a short, flat ledge. Work left towards the first bolt and get yourself set. The real climbing starts here and doesn't end until the high, third bolt. Precise movement and miniscule crimps help gain some ground, but don't let up, carry on to the redpoint crux, which is gaining the third clip. Finish the route up considerably easier terrain passing a few well-spaced bolts.

Really good, but really sparse, this line has misleading holds and questionable movement that will keep you on your toes. A serious endeavor, consider warming up on

Provo

and pre-hanging the first three draws.

Shorter folk may find this a tad less powerful as the feet are all high and lacking near the first bolt. Taller climbers may feel scrunched up and powerless, while the crimp masters may just crush this and look for something a little harder?

scramble up putting in an optional piece in the flake (not really needed but its there if you want it) to the first bolt.  fun move out to the right and up face.  continue straight up to chains.  you can climb a slightly contrived version by not using any of the jugs off left. either way its about an 8 or 9.

Located on the far right side of the wall in a short gully/corridor.  Begin climbing a crack in a short right facing corner.  Pull a small roof and continue on a steep thin face to anchor.

Stinging nettles, rodent droppings, lichen, and friable rock: well, this ain't like

Cairo

or any of the City's other, er, cities.  Start a few feet right of

Easy Corner

and piece together features for about 20 feet until able to work right into the base of a left-facing, slightly left-leaning dihedral system.  Climb the dihedral to a huge dangerous looking block under a roof, but avoid the block by stepping left and climbing an off-width-looking crack until able to step back right to the crack just over the block.  Follow the crack system to the top.  Probably deserves a bomb, and likely was climbed by pre-Europeans or a Lowe, but I'll go ahead and piss on it just for fun.  Grrr.

The bottom half is fairly easy face and crack climbing that goes right of the big roof. Once above the roof, entertaining bolt-protected friction climbing leads to the anchor.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall