Find the crack system that leads to the small chimney. Gear options are plenty for the trained eye. The climbing is easy but the rock quality is not the most inspiring. Great route for learning to trad climb.

Save The Wails

Whale Of A Tale

Orange Corner

Nuke The Whales

I'm Lichen The Climb

A Fine Line

Free Willie

Loyal Order of The Toad

Dirt-Hedral

Playing An Eliminate

Find the crack system that runs up the arete and to the double roof. This route is cliff left on Nuke the Whales Wall.

Easy climbing at the start. Difficulty increases as you approach the roof(s). Pull the roof or bypass it right. Scramble up the ledges to arrange a natural anchor.

A small crack system cliff right of Orange Corner has a fun first section that protects well and leads to a ledge. From this ledge the protection is harder to decipher and trust if you stay on the direct path going up. A couple move past the ledge leads to better protection but the rock quality is still not the most inspiring.

Otherwise from the ledge, walk cliff left and merge on to Orange Corner for a less stressful variation/linkup.

There is a big chicken head once you top out that you can sling and made for a great anchor to top rope both Orange Corner and Whale Of A Tale.

Obvious orange colored right facing large crack.

From the base locate the line that leads up to the cliff left arete of Nuke The Whales Wall. Good protection the whole way up. Near the top there is a bit of dried up Lichen that needs to see some traffic. The climbing is fun and near the top there are a variety of pinches and hand jams. Great route for aspiring trad climbers with a bit of experience under their belt.

Start on the arete that leads to the crack system slightly left of the arete mid-way up. Mellow climbing with good protection most of the way up. A small run out can be protected with micros. Follow the seam that bypasses the roof on the right and leads to to the big ledge. Scramble up the small boulder and make a natural anchor that allows for aa good rope set up with minimal rope drag.

Route goes straight up wall between Orange Corner and Whale of a Tale.  Look for super clean slab 20 ft up.  Face climb from start of O.C. and work right to below the clean slab.  Plug gear in vertical crack, make long reach from crimps to small flake and continue up to 2" crack. Route finishes on O.C.

Nice little route, Harder toward the top but plenty of nice holds

Same start as 'I'm Lichen The Climb'. When you get to the obvious ledge climb up the dihedral-crack with some slight vegetation. Mostly mellow climbing with good protection options.

I cleared away all the briars. but there is still a big loose block of rock the sits cliff left of this route on the face. Pretty fun route for not being documented. There is still a bit of dirt left over from the briar removal. Enjoy!

Climb the small face on the pillar left of Orange Corner. Eliminate the use of anything right of the pillar(orange corner route) and don't climb left of the arete onto 'A Fine Line' territory for the full effect of this variation.

Climb on the face of the small pillar until you're forced to merge onto 'A Fine Line' about half way up.  Climb 'A Fine Line' until you reach the roof on your right (A #4 cam left of the roof instills confidence for the crux roof).

I used double ropes for this route as I went for the onsight which helped on the mental side of things. Pulling the roof is hard to decipher but all the holds are there with plenty of exposure to freak a brother(or sister) out! Keep it together and scramble to the same anchor spot as 'A Fine Line' for a good top rope set up with minimal rope drag (you can use one side of the rope to climb 'A Fine Line' and the other to top rope this route).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 08. Nuke the Whales Wall