Cool, easy and featured climbing up the face to the right of the awesome arete route

Sheep Reaction

.

Start at the base of

Sheep Reaction

and get your sport chimneying action on for two-point-five bolts until the wall of the boulder at your back peters out. Then commit to the face climbing and indulge yourself in crazy pockets for seven more bolts. Keep your eye out for an active bird's nest in at least one of the killer pockets. The route ends at two metolius rap hangers left of the small bush on the obvious ledge.

If, like me, you are thinking maybe you can lower from the top of

Sheep Reaction

to these anchors, you can't. The anchors for

Sheep Reaction

are too far up and left.

Shhhhh Eeep

If Dreams Were Thunder

Where the Sidewalk Ends

Sheep Reaction

This route has a similar profile to Smith's famed Chain Reaction, but this route is way juggy and about twice as long.  Holy Moly is this a long route!

A bunch of super fun climbing leads up the steepness to a crux at about 90 feet: the crux isn't a 5.12 move (probably 11) but by the time you hit the crux, the pump is deep in your veins!

Why not 4 stars?   One, the whole buttress is a bit crumbly compared to the routes up at Mondo Beyondo.   And two, the final 35 feet just aren't as good as the first 90 feet. Finally, if you have been paying attention to the math, you can't do this route with a single 70M rope - it is too long.  So you either have to trail a rope or if you fail to do that you will have to do a messy leaver biner rappel OR potentially a funky double rap/lower using the midpoint anchors on the route to the left.   Acck!

All this needs to jump to a 4 star route is an anchor just after the crux, say at about 95 feet, and a little traffic to clean things up.  Any civic-minded bolters out there, this would be a great service!  Make sure you add the anchors AFTER the crux (just under the little roof would be good) and it won't change the grade at all.

This a really fun line!

Superb route up the steep headwall left of the "Sheep Reaction" arete. Tiptoe up easy but crumbly terrain to reach a very high first bolt. Then get psyched for great climbing using arm-eating jugs and positive pockets, culminating until a distinct crux pulling onto the upper face on slightly thinner holds.

Great route, seems like a bit of an earth journey for a sport route - 160 feet of high quality steep pulling.

The route is overhanging but there are several breaks and ledges where you can get good rests.

The crux is near the top where you will definitely feel a pump.

Of all the routes here, this one also has the highest stone quality.

Super classic!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sidewalk Buttress