This route packs a fair punch in its 100 feet. Begin at an overhanging crack on the right side of the tower. (when viewed from the road)

Pitch one  Climb awkward C2 off the ground on less than stellar rock to a left facing corner. Continue up the corner to the notch at C2/A1. The anchor situation here is grim. There is a faded sling attached to what is presumably an anchor at the notch but the anchor itself is buried beneath a pile of rock and dirt that has fallen on it since the FA. I built an uninspiring anchor and decided to just clip it and continue on to the top. I had major rope drag so plan accodingly.

Pitch Two  Climb up and right past a bolt and a piton to a horizontal crack system that takes you out onto the face and leads to the summit. C2

The Things We Do For Love

I'm not sure this deserves its own "route" status.

First, the appraoch. Do not do this in winter when the road is possibly icy.

From the pullout to the east of the tower, there are two approaches. The common, direct approach, is to walk north, then turn west near your hood. I used this approach, but found a shorter way by going back up the road to the west, then turning north after about 20 feet. I saved 8 or 10 steps.

I did the chimney to the left of the original route. From just left of the base of that route, do a 5.2+ move onto the slab and then move left to the obvious chimney. Climb it to the ledge. Forty feet. Near the top you go out a bulge with a hand crack... you can get gear in here (hand size, obviously). The chimney is 5.8ish. Try not to fall in the lower part... it will leave a mark.

From the ledge, or the notch as it is, you can traverse to the last 40 feet of aid on the original route. As Brandewie says, use a "standard desert rack". After only 20 years here, I'm not sure what that means, but in this case it would be .75 thru 5 friends, one of each, and some spare biners for the bolts. You might want some long slings and a tie-off for the second bolt(an ALMOST banged in angle).

At the summit anchors, one of the banged-in angles wobbled a little when I tapped. I thus replaced it and, as usual, replaced the tat with brown chain (mmmmm, yummy).  The first ascentionists are welcome to the angle , the tat, and the locking biner if they like anytime they come to moab.

The anchor on the intermediate place-ledge is in a funky place for belaying a second pitch,  but you can build one out of 1 inch and 3/4 inch pieces.

Description

Protection

Routes in Roadside Fling Tower