Start by clipping a bolt while standing on a boulder, then crank though the short crux onto easier terrain above. A small nut or tiny cam can be placed (craftily) in the patina plates after the crux start, but isn't really necesary.

One Nut Needed

No Nuts Needed

Escape to Queen Mountain

Searching for Nuts

Starting off a tabletop boulder, clip a bolt and do a short 2-move V3 boulder problem to significantly easier terrain and 2 more bolts above. Not a bomb, but not terribly memorable either. 0.5 stars.

This fantastic line is actually located on a long buttress of rock about 50 yards to the east of Squirrel Rock/Upper Walt's Rock. The route more-or-less follows the blunt southern arête of the formation.

This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to lack of traffic. Adequately protected and a worthy tick. Easily 3/4 stars.

A nice face climb up steep patina plates and incut edges. I don't remember any particular crux, just seemed that every move was 5.9/10- up until the easier top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Squirrel Rock