70m rope required

Start up the left of the two bolt lines and head up blocky, lower-angle terrain past an initial bulge and then into a steeper-than-it-appears headwall above. Clear the headwall and head up some slabby limestone with cool chert dikes, interesting pockets and edges, and then up over a roof in ligher-colored rock just before the anchors. Note that the bolt just over the last roof is difficult to see from below.

Rappelling (there are some rough edges) with a 70m rope will just make it to safe ground with rope stretch. Knot the rope ends.

70m rope required

Dag Nasty Part Deux

Old School

Bang Bang

Spot

Diamond Dogs

Old Stone Crab

Ashes to Ashes

Starts as for Spot but moves right and finishes up the arete.

Boo Direct. Instead of the arete finish you can go straight up to anchor at 12a/b.

It's rare in

American Fork Canyon

that you climb well above the tops of the tallest trees; this route combines fun exposure, a great, secluded location, and some good climbing.

P1

(5.10a, 70 feet) Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge. Look right about ten feet and slightly up and you can see the two-bolt belay anchor. Climb up, clip the next bolt, then traverse right and slightly down to the anchor. Granted it's weird, but it'll make sense for pitch 2.

P2

(5.10b, 80 feet) If the second is leading P2, it's easiest for the second to just keep going rather than to traverse over to the anchor (you've got all the draws anyway). Follow three bolts up along an arete and then cross to the right side of the arete onto a slabby face. Traverse up and right through two more bolts to the base of a bulgy headwall. Surmount the steepness using fun moves while marveling at the view, then continue up to the anchor.

To descend, walk off down and right to the gully on your right. It's likely possible to get down using two raps, but since you brought your approach shoes with you, why bother?

A sweet handjam, a drop-knee, and a partial kneebar on a superb line that climbs a prow high above the starting gully.

A tricky start leads to briefly easier climbing, followed by a slightly overhanging section right where you think you'd get a rest. A thin bit leads to the base of the upper prow, followed by some difficult moves to get established on the prow. Sidepulls and small crimps lead up the steep rock, until the angle eases just before the anchors.

A deceptively difficult line up steep, smooth, limestone.

Begin by using balancy, positive edges to a better clipping hold for the second bolt, and then decide how to get to the third (there is more than one way, of varying difficulty and deviousness).

After the third bolt, the business awaits with a hard clip, balancy moves onto a ledge, then somewhat-less-difficult progress toward the chains. Don't relax quite yet, though, because actually getting to the chains requires some thought (at least if there are not draws already on them).

70m rope required

A long, enjoyable line with an awkward, difficult start, a short, hard crux, and an intimidating, tricky roof just before the top.

Start up along some big, vertical edges with awkward liebacking, followed by easier face climbing to a ledge. From the ledge continue up a wonderful face on positive crimps, sidepulls, and underclings to a rest position. The crux now lurks directly above on the slightly overhanging face with few obvious holds.

Figure out the crux, curse a bit when you realize the next bit is harder and trickier than it looks, and finally, surmount the ending roof problem.

70m rope required

Head up the first pitch of

Old School

: Start from a rough, natural belay ledge and follow the black-painted bolts up and right. Surmount a bulge or two and get to a foot-wide ledge.

From the ledge, head left rather than right and continue up slabbier rock with pockets here and there. Come to a steeper bit and continue up on big edges to the anchors.

A fun, burly roof leads to delicate face climbing with tricky feet, followed by a few moves of choss wrestling to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old School Rock