This is the thin finger crack that starts to the right of Ativan Grin and finishes at chains just below the obvious roof.

Dangling Legs

Into the Groove

Numb Bunion

THE DARK HALF

Ativan Grin

Long Arm of the Aug

The Choad

Halcion Hallucination

Cartwheel

Dr. Sleep

Climb a series of slightly right leaning cracks to the chains located underneath a roof.

Climb the slab arete to the right of Numb Bunion

This route ascend a small bulge/roof then follows a thin crack and small edges to the chains

climb the bolted arête 20feet left of cartwheel

This finger crack climbs the broken face and short finger crack to a ledge just above the middle of the third tier ledge.  Then the main crack leads you to the chains (and through a bush) another 80' higher.  Gear can be finicky, but its all there.

Spy the thin double crack system that goes over a bulge on white rock above. This is what you aim for and is essentially the second half of the climb.

The first half is largely a crack system that ranges from hands to fingers. A bit mungy still. Where it pinches down, you brave the face up and left using some knobs and flakes until reaching the first bolt (~60' up).

From here, there's a wide crack (where a 4" or 5" piece is handy) and the beginnings of the double crack system. Delicate stemming, high steps, and lie-backs will see you up past the next and final bolt and to the anchors.

SAFETY NOTE: You can just barely top rope with a 70m, so use caution and knot the ends.

Climb up to a horizontal crack, continue up the crack that goes straight through an obvious roof then jogs left and up a steep wall to a slab.  The chains are set back 10 feet on the slab.

Note- the original route required one to "cartwheel" across a blank section to the base of the slab, however Mark Bauer did a more direct and exciting variation to the chains.

This long route ascend the a mellow crack to a tree.  At the tree the route steepens and the crack thins and flares a bit.  Clip the bolt then face climb left and up underneath a roof that becomes a corner to the top.

With a 70m rope, when lowering you

barely

make it so tie a knot in the end of the rope!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3rd Tier