Start in crisscrossing cracks between TAFR and TVG.

Turf War

Chickenheads on a Chopping Board

Smoked Bluffs

The Apology Foot Rub

Caustic Community Crack

Accidental Corking

Gateway Variation

Tritonian Yeti Physics

The Vertical Gardener

Jam your way up the leftmost crack system.  Half way up step left and continue up the downward forking triple cracks.  Walkoff left or rap (70m rope recommended)

Located on a separate slab up and left of The Crack Garden.  Start in a wide crack then follow intermittent cracks up featured rock.  This would make for a great early trad lead.  To descend walkoff right and all the way around back to Garden Party Buttress.

Follow the furthest right crack system on the face to a ledge.  Climb over some blocks to a short crack to the right of the corner of AC (or move right, off  of the main face to a low angle layback crack) to a small ledge.  Continue up the right margin of the formation through a couple slabby corners past 3 bolts.  Exit the corner and move left to the anchor.

Jam and layback up the inset corner to the large flake.  Slab your way right and up to the hand crack.  Enjoy climbing hands with just enough flare to keep it interesting.  From the top of the crack you can head left or right to any of the 3 anchor stations.

Start in the leftmost crack or the start of TAFR, when at the midway moss ledge continue up the right hand crack.  Enjoy pulling a short steep step on great hand jams.  Finish left along a juggy hand rail with knobs for feet or foot traverse the rail to the top of the Tritonian Yeti Physics.

Just left of Smoked Bluffs follow a series of cracks to a grass ledge.  From here climb a small right facing corner to a finger crack and then to a bolt. Continue to a small gear placement (yellow Alien/Metolius), ignore the couple bolts up the corner and move left out onto the slab to a bolt then the anchor.  FA was done without bolts.

Start in the left most crack.  At the midway ledge traverse to the short crack left of Tritonian Yeti Physics.  Probably best done as a short toprope after leading something else.

Start in the small corner/roof feature near the center of the face.  Work your way up an easy crack into the alcove below the large roof.  Pull the roof, then continue straight up into a shallow right facing corner and over a fun bulge.  Finish up the low angle right facing corner to a 2 bolt anchor.

This is the main area of the crag and is stacked with great moderate crack climbs on quality stone.  There are lots of variation options due to how close the climbs are to each other.  CC Crack and climbs to the left get late afternoon sun after the rest of the crag has gone into the shade so it's a nice spot to end the day. 

  As of summer 2017, there are now three bolted anchor stations with rap rings on top of the formation.  Left anchor is above TYP.  Middle is accessed by a single bolt on the slab above TW.  Right is up a slabby dihedral above VG.  

  There is also another anchor at the back of the ledge on top of the formation.  Left of this anchor is a steep and increasingly slippery walkoff to the base of the crag.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Crack Garden