A stout alternate start to Oracle. Warlock ascends a gently overhanging prow with a distinct, powerful, unique crux.  

  This line was the inspiration for Micah Klesick to begin bolting new lines at the Jungle Cliff and recruiting others to take it on, setting off the recent wave of development.  

  After two bolts of moderate climbing, bust into a v9 boulder problem navigating the horn and a small crack/pocket, around the third bolt. From the giant jug at the end of the boulder problem, cut left and finish on the remainder of Oracle. 

  Still very dusty. Bring a brush.

Warlock

Mowgli Direct

Slash and Burn

Law of the Jungle

Mowgli's Revenge

Crime Wave

Neuromancer

Welcome to the Jungle

Open Project--Jungle Boogie

Ecocide

Open Project--Sowerby Roofs.

Total Depravity

Amazon Woman

Open Project--The Groove.

Oracle

Tarzan

Enter The Void

Green Scare

Necromancer

Firestorm

King Louie

Heart of Darkness

Wretched Love Affair

Forged In The Flames

Total Liberation

The Wretched of the Earth

Minimancer

Gorilla Love Affair

Under the Yum Yum Tree

Silver Back

Originally an old aid line (Killer Pygmy), this now offers excellent free climbing on unique features.

 Start at the broken column and work your way to the ledge. Take the rightmost bolt line that leads you to a ramp that angles up and to the left. From here, stay on the bolt line that keeps you in the corner heading straight up. You'll eventually make it a section that has a large "fin" on climbers left. Figure your way through this crux section that eventually leads you to rest. One more tricky section to go and then you'll be at the anchors.

This confuddling and hard route starts under overhanging pillers, and supposedly goes straight up to the left side of a large roof, and joins Mongli's Revenge. Good luck figuring it out!

A steep route, this line was newly rebolted, and is being cleaned up. Climb up the overhanging start, onto a slab, and up into a corner, and follow it up and slightly left.

Law of the Jungle starts on the best part of Ecocide, then adds 7 more bolts of excellent climbing. You'll negotiate a ledgy bulge, an interesting dihedral, a reachy move (probably dynamic for shorter climbers), juggy face climbing, and finally a thoughtful crux right before the anchors. Survive it if you can!You might consider extending the last bolt of Ecocide. Law of the Jungle is the more natural line for a full rope length than Ecocide/Green Scare, but that last bolt trends a little too far left of the line. I put probably 8 hours of cleaning into this route, but it's still quite dirty, especially around the first few bolts. I couldn't get close enough to the wall on TR to really get in there. So, bring a brush, and prepare to get a little dusty for now.

Another hard start leads to easier climbing to a roof, and then traverse under the left side of the roof and up and over.

This interesting route is just left of Gorilla Love Affair, and shares the last bolt and the anchor of Gorilla Love Affair. This climb is actually well worth climbing. Climb up to where Gorilla Love Affair goes right, and with a few burly moves, gain the tight dihedral directly above. Then squirm your way up to good holds and easier moves to the shared finish.

An extension to mini-mancer that adds in some more movement at increased difficulty. Use the anchor for mini-mancer as another bolt. Continue moving up into a small corner crack. Navigate that and then move to the left to traverse a large block. Once on top of the block, you'll continue up a couple more bolts to the anchors.

Welcome to the Jungle is open for business. Its a bit dirty on some of the ledges and needs some bolts moved around for the 2 different finishes. The left finish, original finish, has changed some since the blocks came off. Still needs some cleaning. This keeps the route at low end 5.11 The right finish is considerable harder with a couple of difficult reaches and a burly top out bumps the grade closer to 5.12a. 

 

Powerful, exposed roof climbing. Amazing position. It should clean up to be a 4 star line.  

  A technical dihedral leads to powerful undercling moves (the rock is more solid than it appears through this section). The route then splits at a double chain draw--the left variation is Micah Klesick's *closed project* and the original line. I equipped a 5 bolt variation to the right as an open project.  

  The grade is just a guess--it feels pretty hard to me. I took all the major loose flakes off, but beware some remaining loose rock.

Thin technical start (crux) in a shallow dihedral gives way to good rests before a left-trending traverse under a roof on decent holds. Continue moving left through a small corner, around a massive flake, and up another small corner before ending at a two-bolt anchor on a ledge. 

  Things to consider: As with all new Jungle Cliff routes, Ecocide is a little dusty. The best way to clean it is to climb it. So climb it! Also, after the first 20 feet, this route continuously trends left to the anchors, making it tricky to clean when being lowered. It is advised if possible to clean via following the route.

I found an unknown bolt line, turns out it's an abandoned Sowerby project. It splits off right from Slash and Burn at around mid height and busts through several tiered roofs.  

  I updated the  hardware with new stainless ASCA bolts, knocked off some loose blocks, left a fixed sling under one of the roofs, and chalked up a few holds. There is still cleaning to be done on it, although it lacks the layer of mud found on the right side of Jungle wall. As of 11/6/15 I still need to yank out the old bolts and patch the holes.  

  Some flakes came off of the Slash and Burn crux as well, so the lower portion may now be harder than it's original 12a rating.  

  From the look of it, this route will have several Vhard cruxes, including a horizontal dyno and possibly a bump to a shallow mono. It will make a worthy ascent for whoever gets up the thing. Have at it.

Quality new line on the Jungle Cliff.  It begins in a short and very enjoyable stem box, then immediately traverses right, finally pulling around the right side of the large roof and finishes on 10 feet of causal incut slab.  Total Depravity Involves some classic "Broughton" trickery, body contortion, and maybe a little blue collar grunting. Still a tad dirty but great none the less. 5.11 FUN!!! (getting close to 5.11+ range for those with shorter wing spans)

 [stays dry most of the winter]

A hard start leads to a tricky move around the right side of the roof and up an easy crack to the anchor.

The project is fully bolted, but needs a ton of cleaning. It should yield difficult, technical moves on vertical and gently overhanging terrain. I have a feeling the crux will be very sequential. The holds are small and the feet are scarce.  

  I probably wont get around to working this until several of my other projects get completed. If anyone is motivated to clean it off and give it a try, be my guest.

Oracle is an amazing line with powerful boulder problems, good rests, and (for me) some tricky kneebar wizardry. Shares the start with Necromancer, but heads straight up where Necromancer cuts right. The lower section is characterized by crimpy v2-3ish moves, then the difficultly kicks up for the last several bolts. Get it!  

  Thanks to Erik for bolting and cleaning this excellent route.

This amazing looking, and rather improbable looking route is quite prominent. Hard arete climbing to start, easing into a finishing slab to the shared anchors. Needs cleaning.

This route starts about 100 feet off the ground and heads up a slab over the enormous roof on the upper left side of the Jungle Cliff. The route is characterized by an extremely airy start to technical finesse moves on side-pulls and crimps up an 80 degree slab. The crux features thin, delicate moves with marginal feet. Though this route is relatively short, it feels pretty adventurous and gripping for the location and grade.

Starting off the Ecocide anchors, this route follows a natural corner into a roof and ends at a nice ledge 5 feet to the right of the Necromancer anchor. Climb through a short bulge section to gain a good rest. From there, follow the corner underneath the roof. Clip the only fixed draw and navigate the roof section. From here, clip one more bolt to gain the ledge and the anchors.  

  From the top of Green Scare, one can continue straight up past 2 bolts to get to Skull Ledge and the beginning of Total Liberation. Alternatively, one can traverse left past two bolts and a bulge to gain the belay anchors for Enter The Void. 

  For information on the origin of the name: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green…

Full name: A Firestorm to Purify.  

  This route climbs directly up a steep, imposing roof with big moves on surprisingly good holds. Definitely a boulderer's sport route, requiring power, core tension, and even a virtual top out when you pull the lip.  

  Unfortunately, a key hold broke off shortly after I put the bolts in. The new crux sequence now goes left of the bolt line, meaning you'll take a swing if you blow it mid crux. It's a clean fall under a roof, but it adds a bit of commitment when working out the beta. 

  The route has cleaned up well, but it's the Jungle Cliff--bring a brush and be prepared to get a little dusty.

This route is really fun and has committing climbing sections. I managed to send it on 7/15/2018 and called it "King Louie" I will estimate the grade at about 5.12d. The best approach to this route is through Forced March, by skipping every other clip or clipping/unclipping bolts. Make sure to use an extended sling at the anchors at the start of the route, passed the Forced March anchors (make sure to unclip these anchors, or rope drag could be bad.) The climb can be divided in 3 sections: first climb a tricky dihedral for 2 bolts. Clipping the second bolt can be a bit reachy for short people. You will have to trust your feet through dihedral stemming to make it to the better holds. After the dihedral, you will traverse to the right under a small roof, on better holds, before starting the second section of powerful undercling moves for another 2 bolts. You will get a good shake at the point where this route splits from Jungle Boogie. The route up to that point is probably around 5.12a. Make sure you feel fresh and rested before continuing the route as it will get much harder. The last section is moving left and up on the final 2 bolts. The climbing feels like a tough V6/V7 boulder problem. The last few moves to the anchors are much easier but due to the insecure position could get you if you are pumped.

 Overall, a really nice addition and a fairly clean route. But as usual at Broughton, it will get dirty after a few weeks of not being climbed. Thanks Micah for this great line!

This amazing route punches straight up a overhanging face/arete on good holds, with a hard crux to start, and then up to a thin crux on the headwall  before the slab.    End the route at either the first set of anchors, or continue up through a really fun dynamic V3 crux just before the 2nd anchors.

Climb the first three bolts of Gorilla Love Affair, then do a easy but unprotected traverse over the right slab into the top of Wretched of the Earth. Allows you to link fun cruxes of both routes, with moderate climbing in between. Worth doing!  

  Don't stop at the lower Heart of Darkness anchor. The WofE top crux continues for ~15ft to a higher anchor.  

  This might be PG-13. If it becomes a popular link-up, I'll add a bolt to protect the traverse. Or, if anyone else has the equipment and inclination to do it, FA permission is granted.

Distinguished by three distinct sections separated by bulges, as well as having a bit of an adventurous feel from losing sight of the belayer early on, this route is a solid addition to an already great wall. Start up a shallow dihedral to a rest under a major bulge, then fire through the bulge to a slightly slabby section. Follow this section into a few small bulges and a corner that eventually rounds off to the anchors on a ledge.  

  Typical jungle cliff new route warning: jungle cliff can be pretty dirty/dusty, especially the new routes. Accordingly, I have put over 6 hours in just cleaning/scrubbing this route, and others have put in several hours as well. However, it is still dirty, expect this. But at the same time, this route is really fun so don't let a little dirt scare you off!  

  Also, in the process of cleaning this route I fell off the end of my fixed line and had to go to the hospital to get 27 stitches. Don't let my suffering be for nothing! 

  This route was named after a great Earth Crisis song, and was FA-ed in the smoke of the Eagle Creek fire. Get it?! Climb this route after Firestorm (another Earth Crisis song from the same record) and you may just become straight edge 

youtube.com/watch?v=-c1aXBm…

Total Liberation offers steep, powerful climbing on an airy 2nd/3rd pitch off of Skull Ledge. The route mostly follows the original 3rd pitch of Amazon Man (new bolts replace the rusted out pins) to a new crux finish and an independent anchor. 

  A more difficult direct start may be possible.

Three distinct sections separated by two great rests. The first crux is bizarre flared chimney. Pull through this to gain a no hands rest followed by relatively mild climbing above. Save some juice for a bouldery second crux right before the chains.  

  Don't stop at the lower Heart of Darkness anchor! The route continues up ~15ft to a higher anchor.  

  I have a feeling this will clean up into a really good route. Now, like all the unclimbed sections of the Jungle Wall, it is unreasonably dusty. 

  I'm really curious to see where the grade lands. I'm putting it at 12a and that feels about right for my beta on the redpoint. That said, I'm sure someone will figure out a better sequence for the first crux than my wacky kneebar shenanigans, and with less dust on the holds and smears it's very possible that it will feel more like 5.11+.

It's a juggy and ledgy climb that has a hard start. Recommend to stick clip the first bolt. The ledges look sketchy, but there are 4 bolts close together to protect falls over them. There are several ways to make your way up this line. Most of the clips can be made with a no-hands rest.

Gorilla Love Affair is a terrific climb on the left side of the Jungle Cliff.  It is unusually clean for a Jungle Cliff climb, possibly due to its (relative) popularity.  G.L.A. offers several strenuous but fun cruxes which are separated by good rests.  A small cam can be placed after the last bolt before transitioning left onto the finishing slab (although the remaining climbing is fairly casual).

A bouldery start that works its way up lower angle face features. After the crux the climbing eases up for a bit. The holds will start to get thin near the top but it's only a few moves away from the anchors.

Silver Back follows the water streak up the far right side of Jungle Cliff and features three distinct cruxes that separate you from the anchors. Begin up the dirty dihedral to a steep, powerful bulge (the first clip is above this move so definitely stick clip it).  Then, moderate, fun climbing takes you up the arete and to a good rest just before the headwall. Clip a bolt and do a series of lock-offs to a very powerful gaston move. Continue up the face on ever shrinking feet until you reach either the jug-bug or heartbreak. All draws have been replaced and it is clean and ready to climb!

Next big cliff past Bat Wall. Not climbed often, but some very good and powerful routes.   Little known is the fact that this big wall is dry year round! So come get your winter climb on here! It's dirty, but it does clean up with traffic. So bring a brush and come climb!

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Routes in (9) Jungle Cliff