A beautiful ridge route that is worthy of the long walk to get there. People often start up the West Ridge but at the top of the so called 'dome', they veer right and follow the sandy chute to the south ridge just below the summit. The better alternative is to stay with a direct ascent of the West Ridge all the way to the summit. As with any 3/4 class route, you can make your own adventure. I found some really wonderful situations on this ridge. The rock was solid throughout. About half way up you are sort of committed to staying with the ridge. At that point it begins to narrow and the exposure increases a bit. The elevation gain from the pass to the summit is about 1640 feet.

A full description of the trip is available at

http://esa-rol.com/content/gallery/71/matterhorn-west-ridge

West Ridge

North Arete

Double Dihedral

Start on the right side of North Arete. After the approach up the narrow snow gully (just left of West Couloir) climb in a big left-facing dihedral (that is likely to have some snow or ice in it). Climb up the dihedral. Than traverse left to a ledge, and up to the second dihedral with a wide crack. This 2nd dihedral could be reached from the left side of the North Arete as well. Climb up this dihedral (crux) to a head-wall. There is a block to sling right under the headwall. Sling this block and climb up the headwall directly taking the line of your desire. I took the line right over the block we used for anchor. Had to climb a ways up before getting in first useful protection, but climbing wasn't too bad. Maybe 5.6-7. After that simul climb or solo  the 3-4th class ridge to the summit of Matterhorn. Descent East Couloir.

From Twin Lakes hike south along the Horse Creek Trail, when it heads up and left keep going south along Horse Creeek, at about 8600' cut right and head up steep terrain towards the peak. Limited campsites.

The climbing difficulty is fairly consistent throughout.  The first pitch involves some rotten rock and is poorly protected.  The last two pitches below the summit ridge are probably the hardest, and feel more like 5.8 than 5.6, but they also have the sweetest moves and the best rock.  Once on the summit ridge, move toward the southwest and trend up toward the summit.

About 7 pitches. (A direct start start, 5.9, begins at the toe of the buttress). Hike up left of the toe of the buttress and follow a CL4 corner and ramp to a large ledge at the top of the direct start (2 pitches, 5.7).For about 2 pitches stay right of the buttress (5.7), then pass through a notch, and trend left towards the finishing corner (see photo, or climb arete to left to avoid masochism), left of the main arete (3 pitches 5.7). Final steep crack is the crux.

The ridge to the summit is then followed for about 2 pitches.

Descent: Head down to the east gully, and follow it either on loose scree, or nice snow depending upon the season.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Matterhorn Peak