In the cluster of boulders across from the Mystery Boulders. Crouch start on two sidepulls, make two big moves in a row and mantle the lip. Punchy and might be a little sandbagged. The new sds is a lot better.

Ride the Lightning

Maharaja Project

Easy Does It

Melcro

Soft Way Out

Something's Gotta Give

Slab N' Dab

The Leaky Roof

Ride the Lightning SDS

Thunder Cat

T.O.B.

Chicken Run

Master of Puppets

Fraggle Rock

The Dagger

Northeast Jungle Cat

A Horse Named Mystery

Unknown Couple

Mystery Arête

Northeast Jungle Beast

Crouch start on the left, toss to the jug on the lip and mantle. Then grab the arete and mantle again directly above. Try and do a SDS for added pump and to bump the grade up. Proud and scary.

June 2016-there's talk of D. Gandy's crew putting this up (and other lines). If they'd like to change it since they have the FA? please post the lines they collected while in town and we will update/delete this page. If the rumor mill is wrong I want to call this

Master of Puppets

. Let us know, happy to have correct info. Mantling once and immediately pulling onto the slab is

Pinocchio V2

and is pretty fun in it's own right.

Unfinished project, Maharaja. Stand start the arete from holds on the overhanging side. Go up to a right facing sloper ledge, transfer somehow to the left facing sloper ledge and top out from there. Would be awesome to see this go.

Stand start with left had on jug and right on knob. Hike right hand up to a sloppey but decent hold up right. Gather feet and go way out left to the lip or find the intermediate crimps to gain the lip. Exit direct. Left exit drops it down significantly.

There are a couple variations that Melissa figured out while I was projecting Maharaja. The rock can be loose but once cleaned up could serve as a nice warm up.

Eliminate. Mystery Arete without using the arete. Start left in large pocket and right on small sidepull. Make your way up using smears, knobs and small features on the face to a good rail.

Start up the pocketed slab till you get to the bomber hold mid way through the climb. Work up to one more jug then toput

stand start on the face just to the right of Mystery Arête.

Start under the lip of Ride the Lightning Bolt in two hand jams and twist around till you can get a foot over your head. Invert style your way over awkwardly.

An extension of Ride the Lightning. SDS with both hands on the low slopey rail. Then go for the big sloper hueco and work your way back into the original route. Epic mantle to finish.

The smaller rock to the right and in between this boulder problem and Mystery Arete, is off

Stand start on the left side of the Ride the Lightning Boulder. Traverse left to right, back into the mantle of RTL.

Good face holds are everywhere. SDS and climb as high as you dare. The top out is covered with a split 500 lbs block so be careful if you pull the lip. Typically down climbed after you slap the highest hold. Another 15' to the right is a slab with a fun little problem on it.

Crawl to the back of the chimney and get yourself locked into the smallest part of the crack. From there thrutch an curse your way to the top using body locks and chicken wings. Loose ish rock near the top, but nothing to cry about.

Also a long sleeve shirt and pants would be recommended. This thing eats clothes.

A small face with a crack in it. Most problems here are eliminates and I don't think they deserve their own pages. The rock up here is cleaning up nicely, it gets early afternoon shade, and the problems are fun enough to be good warmups for the harder things close by. There is a connector trail to the powerline trail near here.

Alex pimping the Veasy crack on a nice summer day:

youtube.com/watch?v=xgXUvKn…

More potential up here the further towards town you walk.

Crouch start with a left hand on a loose pinch and a right on a tit shaped rock. Stand up, grab the dagger, and use good feet to get to a pocket. A pull from here gets you to top out jugs. Maybe the best v-easy problem in the circuit.

start on the overhanging arete to the right of A Horse Named Mystery. No tricks with this route just few obvious holds up an overhang, but bad landing makes it quite committing. Start with left hand on bomber undercling and right on side pull. Then use pinches and crimps to work up the arête till you reach the same exit holds as A Horse Named Mystery then mantle up.

Start with a super rad compression stand thing, make your way to the crack, then hit the jugs on the outside lip. After getting a high bump make a sketchy but super satisfying mantle that you prooobably don't want to fall on. Other than the large boulder that might break your fall, this problem is perfect.

Stand start on cool hand holds and walk up on big feet till you can reach a good left hand dish. After that a right hand and high feet take you to the fun slabby top out.

Absolute classic... perfect volcanic arête with pockets, pinches and exposed topout.

Stand start with a good left hand undercling and a sharp right crimp. Climb up the arête and face holds to good topout. Start is prolly the crux.

The extended cut of Northeast Jungle Cat, throwing in a couple hard, awesome moves.

Start matched in the crack on the far right edge of the T.O.B. slab.Work your way across the slab using a collection of bad pinches and great feet. Slap left hand into a sloper, fall into a bad right hand pinch, control that barndoor, slap out left again into the start of Northeast Jungle Cat, lock off super hard and get ready to pull some V6 moves!! Super rad and not to be missed.

The climb has been done without using the massive block in the right corner for feet. That said, all the feet are so good, there's probably no difference in grades if you do or don't use it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4. Fraggle Rock