Another great addition to this wall. Looks like a wide suffer fest but is actually mostly casual (wide crack techniques can easily be avoided altogether) and only one #4 is needed. Climb up major dihedral while placing gear in smaller crack on the right wall. Keep stemming and jamming as it gets steeper. Exit out the right most crack (left crack looks doable too). Good rock and gear but still dirty...

Behind The Scenes

East Rib

Mystery Box

Veiled Virgin

Enigma with a Stigma

Hidden Agenda

The Ramshackler

The Pineapple Express

Tucked away in a corridor is this engaging trad line. Very good gear along the cluster of seams and runnels. Start slightly left but then head straight up. When the crack thins out at halfway step left into another crack, then back right onto a small ledge. Continue straight up passing a flake and finishing in the short chimney. Rock is excellent with many sculpted face holds but is dirty.

Ascends the long arcing arete left of 'The Ramshackler'.  

  1) 5.9- 100   Start the same as Ramshackler; up the easiest path above a pile of boulders. Head left to arete on the ramp below roof. Then straight up into the flared chimney/OW. Protection is hard to find before gaining the OW. Build anchor at top of wide crack (semi-hanging belay) unless you can find a better spot. 

  2) 5.8+ 100'   Continue up rib through a slab crux protected by thin gear. Then becomes lower angle to the top. Enjoy the exposure! Build anchor. Rap station is in notch below summit.

Each pitch is thought provoking for it's grade and all have some fun gear finding. Crux doesn't come until right below the summit ;)

 1) 5.8 70' Start towards left side of wall, navigate the veggie and aim for small roof above pine tree sapling. Natural anchor.

 2) 5.10+ 70' Continue up right leaning crack that leads into short stem box. Tricky gear. Build belay at two pitons just above the box, supplement pins with small gear.

 3) 5.11+ 60' To the right of belay, carefully climb up hollow flake. RP/micro cam placement right above flake. Pull large roof above. Keep following crack to two bolts straight ahead. Natural anchor.

Two angling cracks in the center of the wall. First pitch is an easier classic. The second is still really good but a little awkward.  

  1) 5.9+ 80' Work up and left to main crack. Crux is the finger section mid-route. Belay at ledge. 

  2) 5.11 80' Take the right leaning crack from ledge. Gear and climbing is tricky. Belay on big ledge at base of summit block. 

  No bolts anywhere. Bring webbing and rap ring (ours must've blown away).

A fun, little adventure with vast views of Little Devil's Tower, The Marina, Harney Peak, and even Rushmore. The second pitch is the real prize, and the third is the crux. 

  1) 5.0 60' Scramble up easiest path, aiming for chimney notch against 'Hidden Spire'. Build belay at ledge. Watch for loose blocks. I'll be honest, not the best pitch around. 

  2) 5.10+ 100' Take obvious crack that follows closely to the arete. Cool, short crux at the top of dihedral, followed by easier terrain that leads to a nice belay ledge. Natural anchor. 

  3) 5.10+ PG13 40' Traverse straight right from belay, getting good gear in horizontals. Climb up once ramp starts steepening. Find more gear out left before heading into short corner above. Excellent gear protects the bulge pull. Single bolt protects the finishing moves.

Wow, this thing packs a punch! Starts off fairly easy with bomber gear and huge crystals. Then comes the cruxy transition between cracks, followed by some awkward, angling flares, and finishes you off with 25' of OW. 

  1) 5.5 60' Start on far left side of wall on top of boulders. Angle up and right on easy terrain to belay ledge below orange roof. Natural anchor. 

  2 5.10+ 130' Traverse right from ledge to gain second crack system. Crack will peter out at the crux (good gear). Face climb up and left to start the next diagonally crack. Follow this crack as it arches to the center of the wall. An angling offwidth will spit you out right at the belay/rappel anchors. Bring lots of extendable draws!

An exciting and varied route with good exposure!P1: Climb discontinuous flakes to a large bushy ledge, from large ledge climb up and left to smaller ledge. Build anchor off of single bolt and crack. 5.8 PG-13P2 From anchor climb left facing dihedral to a bolt, from the bolt gain another dihedral with a bolt. Above the dihedral climb out left into yet another dihedral, place a high (small) piece and traverse left on tricky flake above large roof. Pull above the flake to a crack and follow obvious crack system to the large belay ledge. Build anchor. 5.10+ PG-13P3: climb path of least resistance to summit. 5.4

When viewing Picket Fence area from the SW, the Mystery Spires is the taller cluster just left. Not many routes. The Conns' 3rd classed their way to the summit on Oct. 1949. They also summited Hidden Spire, tucked away on the N side. There also lies a few multipitch routes on the tall N side.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mystery Spires