A fun and varied adventure route, this is a good multi to do if the ‘Regular Route’ was too easy for you. The 1P 5.8 crack is well protected. The 5.7 traverse and slab (5.4 to 5.6) might turn your brain a little “hairy".

This route is just right of 'The Merkin 5.10a', near a giant pine tree, also under the big roof that's in the middle of LB. Goes up to roof and left to big slab. The first pitch is a nice finger/hand crack over a bulge, and up through a small right facing corner. This crack eats pro. Build anchor (w/ your larger gear) under the big roof. Traverse left, placing pro at every chance. Some may want to break this traverse up into two short pitches or stretch out the rope, place pro on the traverse (long runners) and hit the slab, build belay. When arriving up on the big slab, look for cracks & ledges to build anchors. Two pitches of run out 5.4 - 5.6 slab, options here, or trend left to join the big right facing corner.

Topo, pics, beta

sekiclimbing.com

Hairbrain

Hair Raising

Regular Route

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow

Prodenominator

Middle Size White Boys

The Merkin

Welcome to Little Baldy

wigged out

HP Lovecraft

Sparkler

Skinhead

Crazy Bald Heads

Bit By Bit

Air Heads

Tapestry

Start just left of Hairbrained.

P1: Climb up the face past five bolts to join Hairbrained in the middle of its second pitch at a ledge with flakes (165 feet; 5.10a).

P2: Move left under the overlap a few feet, then pull the overlap and friction straight up to a sloping belay ledge (140 feet; 5.6R).

P3: Angle up and right to the top of the dome.

Hair Raising is a trad line that climbs a corner system from bottom to top through some beautiful sections.  The upper two pitches are what make this climb great.  The first pitch is dirty and can be bypassed by climbing to the big ledge via Cornered Animal (5.9) or

Welcome to Little Baldy

(5.10a).

P1:  Climb the big blocky corner up to the big ledge.

P2:  From the left side of the big ledge, follow the right facing corner system (crux).

P3:  Continue up the corner until the crack disappears,  then head up through slab to the roof and follow it right.

(P2 and P3 can probably be linked but I haven't tried it)

This is a great route to practice leading or following trad climbs.  It climbs a ramp up across the face of the dome.

This route will teach you to trust your feet up 160 feet of perfect rock.  Getting to the first bolt is interesting, but not too bad if you start from the right spot.

Fun and well-protected friction climbing on high quality rock past 7(or 8)bolts to a two bolt anchor.  Low 5th top-out pitch.

An excellent route ascending a natural line up the tallest and steepest part of the face.  The climb requires a variety of techniques including liebacking, friction and several sizes of cracks.

One of the few all trad routes on Little Baldy.  The only bolts are the anchor at the top of the first pitch.  It's a very good route that will only get better with time and little more traffic.  It may be 5.9 if the crux corner gets a little more clean.

Please climb this route!

P1:  Ascend the left leaning corner/crack system until you see two anchor bolts off to the left.

P2:  Continue up the same system, through the crux corner, until a small roof.  Skirt around the small roof to the right and walk up and left to belay at the base of the arching crack (5.10a).

P3:  Follow the fun, clean arching crack up.  As it turns left it gets wider but can be climbed without many off-width moves (Unless you didn't bring big gear and have to try to place gear in the back of the crack as you squirm up and get your knee stuck!).  Belay where the arching crack ends.

P4:  Climb up the small left facing dihedral through the big ear/flake thing.  A big piece comes in handy here.  Friction off the belay is the hardest part of this pitch.  Belay once you get to 4th class at a large right facing roof/corner.

Walk to the top and high five!

Did just fine with a 60m rope, as below, but required some downclimbing at times as the middle of the climb is all slab without a place to establish an anchor!  First pitch was the most fun, and the rest was a bit nerve racking with the run out.  Evidence of someone appearing to have bailed off after the first pitch and sacrificed some nuts in the process.  See

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/little-baldy.html

for an awful and vague description of this route that doesn't mention any of the runout...

P1: Follow the crack system up to the roof.  Good spot for gear anchors there roughly in the middle under the roof, where it is easy to hang out for your 2nd.

P2: traverse right, under the roof, then go vertical once it becomes easier.  Some slab here with intermittent cracks for gear.  Keep going up (and slightly right) where you will find a crack system to set up another gear anchor.

P3: continue upwards towards another crack system, with intermittent slab.  This belay position is the least comfortable.

P4: slab city without any cracks for protection, going roughly up and a bit left.  Run out on the order of nearly 100ft, but eventually after you will hit a set of old rusty antiquated anchors.  Unfortunately there is nothing else for protection.

P5: more run out slab.  There is an old piton that you can girth hitch a thin sling through for protection--otherwise largely blank.  At this point you could go roughly right and up, around the contour of the dome, to the valley where there are some trees, for about 40-50ft of run out until you get to a ledge system where there is opportunity for another anchor, then a 4th class walk up to the summit and take the hiking trail down, OR...

P6(continuing up): didn't do this myself as it was getting dark and the runout was a bit much, looks like one could go up and left on 50+ft of easier and more "rolling" slab to the crack system in the right facing obvious dihedral (finally a protectable crack!) and likely continue for 1-2 pitches of much less run out climbing to the summit.

Pitch 1

Follow a large east crack and slab section for about 100 feet to the top and belay using gear just below a tree with a small roof right above and to the right. You could possibly belay off of the tree itself but the rope would probably get stuck in a crack.

Pitch 2

Climb over the small roof and reach up to grab a jug that you can’t see from below. The. Continue up through very low angle slab and belay in any of the many cracks that will appear after about 100 feet it’s a little run out because of the slab but a fall is very unlikely.

Pitch 3

Continue towards the summit across very easy slab. Your call weather you want to use the rope. It’s more like 4th class at this point but some of the rock is slippery with gravel in spots and a slip would be bad. Once it flattens out even more belay at a crack. I used hip belay because of how low angle it was towards the end. Then coil the rope and continue on up the last 30 feet to the summit

I don't remember much about this route other than it was the best route on the climbers right side of the dome and one of the best on the dome. I also remember thin slab climbing and a bit runout at times. I also recall an interesting aesthetically pleasing face. Although this route is bolt protected I don't consider it a sport route.

(If someone has a better description then send it to me and I will replace it with mine)

Fun slab route that climbs past about 6 bolts and ends at a bolted anchor.

Slab climbing linking up discontinuous cracks that link up with Tapestry.

This climb can be done as one clean 5.7+ pitch, or taken to the top through easier terrain.  Makes a good warm up and dries off very quickly after rain.

P1:  Climb up to the right of a small triangle roof, past a horisontal crack, and trend up and right to a bolted anchor.

P2:  Climb up and belay at the start of a left facing dihedral.

P3:  Up and left until you're on a large ledge system.

P4:  Option 1- Climb up and left through runout slab, past a bolt and into a right facing dihedral.  Option 2- Go right into a left facing dihedral and follow it up.

The last half pitch is 4th class but a fall would be bad.

I don't remember much about this route. I don't remember Chad(sorry Chad). My notes show a crack starting a bit left of Bandito going up to a face, then to a roof, then going right. I vaguely remember easy runout face climbing after that. My notes also say stoppers and cams to 4".

The route starts just to the right of Bit by Bit(5.7+). Slabby climbing. the route meets up with bit by bit after the first pitch and then the two routes link up with Wiged Out(5.8)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Little Baldy