Somewhat challenging start leads to fun climbing on the arete. Great warmup for other routes at Amusement Wall and generally fun climb.

Knope We Can

Indoor v7

Fable

Slot Machine

Scooby Doo

Whatchamacallit

Starter Pack

Dry Route

Lunge or Plunge

Choss Direct

Everything’s comin’ up aces

Rocktober Festival

Psychedelic Schoolteacher

Bangarang

Scrappy

Easily Amused

What Just Bit Me

Hang Ten

The Teets

Wu Who

It’s Medicinal

Power Play

Campus Traverse

Pocket Rocket Man

Tastes Like Burning

Sparky

Campus Ousside

Slingshot

Lukewarm Sausage

Stella

Lunge or Plunge Low

Blind Spot

Gateway

Three Blind Mice

Double Blind (Blindspot Low)

Shaggy

Shimmy Shimmy Ya

Dingus Prince

Duplicity

Anxious Arrival

Pocket Rocket

Slappy McCracken

Pondering Physics

Hey look Ma I made it.

Skull Crusher

Great pockets help you get onto the wall and crux is getting over the bulge just above the second bolt. Watch out for mud on top, but key hands will help you get to the top. Really enjoyable moderate for the area.

Start 15 feet right of "Pocket Rocket" matched on an obvious chalked up edge to the left of a crack. Traverse left, making some big, sequential moves on cool grips to the start of "Pocket Rocket". Dyno or crimp your way to the finishing jug and drop. 

Sit start on two small pockets with heel above hands, cross to good slot and traverse left to jug at lip.

Start on low edge match, follow the slots up and swing out for the sloper. Grab the left hand under cling and make your way to the jug

Difficulty depends on where you start. Eases to big holds at top.

Left the old anchor intact . Don't know who climbed it...when,...if ..or in what style.Could be around the same age as the pitons in Dr. Evil.    Pretty tough sequence of pockets.

Sit start on the jugs and throw to a Gaston (V1). V0 stand start. My favorite warm up in the area. My climbing partner and I have been warming up here for a long time. Top out doesn’t add anything and is muddy. Not sure if we did it first or others. Feel free to pm me if you were the FA and want a different name!

Start on blocky undercling, paste feet, and do a long move to a finger bucket. Work your feet and swing out to a sloper. Traverse a few moves left and finish on slot machine. Fun, gymnastic problem.

Start on l “hey look ma I made it” then keep Traversing on the good jugs till you go around the corner

instagram.com/p/BxYXMdgBoqN…

Sit start below, and then climb to the start holds of Pocket Rocket. Find some long but static moves instead of jumping to the same ledge.

Start low on two slots, move straight up using mixture of slots and crimps. Big move to jug. Finish through "campus traverse V5"

Route was developed right before the Mad River Gorge was officially opened in May 2017. You might need to start off a cheater stone straight into the bouldery start. After earning the grade before clipping the first bolt cruise up some fun movements until the last few moves test whether or not you brought enough gas for the whole trip.

Start as far back in cave as possible for full-effect. Some really nice moves on face, eases at top.

Only wide crack on A.M wall. Yes... it was once filled with trash.

Start on flakey jug near the ground, then work your way up on to the roof using more flakey jugs. At the end of the roof take a poor match to move a heel out to the right and pull on that to a good side pull and finish on the next large flake. The route is a bit dirty, some shrubbery near the finish and top out.

Sit start under Shimmy Shimmy Ya on the far left of Amusement Wall. Traverse right and up to the outside lip of the cave. Continue to traverse along the lip to top out on Slot Machine.

 The line stays below the large ledge to the left of the cave lip. Although not an eliminate, the intent is to stay below the level of lip until the top out.

Historic route, and the only bolted line that existed on Amusement Wall before the Mad was opened. CTB has a colorful background story. Ask Jim if you see him out at the Gorge. ;)

Sit start with your hands on the ledge. Moving straight up, squeeze some beta out of the teets, gain some pockets, and then pull on crimps till you reach the jug right of the small roof.  The finish jug is above and left of the finish for Pocket Rocket/Rocktober Festival.

Nice crack route. Probably soloed along time ago..although topping out could be really sketchy. Can be led trad.

Stand start on low left hand side pull and right hand pocket pinch on opposite sides of the arete. Climb straight up the arete, finishing on the jug just below the roof.

Start underneath roof on good holds. Eventually bump your left hand to a good pinch in roof. Set your feet and do a wild drive by to a jug. Drop off, or if you are tied in continue up the sport route that starts on the finishing jug

Start on What Just Bit Me to roof then traverse left on flake. Awesome transition to left wall and easy pull up to top-out.

A few long moves on big ledges to bomber hold above anchors.

This is a new route that was added in May 2017. 

Start with ‘what just bit me’ to the outside lip. Traverse the outside lip and top out at ‘Lukewarm sausage.’

 This is very similar to 'Campus Traverse' except you make the leftward traverse on the lip of the cave, not on the inside. This permutation makes the climb a lot more core intensive since it's really difficult to keep feet on the for the lip traverse. 

 Unsure of grade here. It’s significantly harder than campus traverse but is also juggy through and through.

Start on good jug below yellowish spot. Cross into sidepull, finish up and left on crimps.

Climb the same line as "Anxious Arrival", but instead of topping out "Lunge or Plunge" continue on and finish the same as "Campus Ousside". Climbs like a route.

Start all the way under the roof on left facing jug. Pull through crimps to block, finish same as Lunge or Plunge.

Start same as "Lunge or Plunge" but make a few powerful compression moves out right to finish on "Dry Route".

A low traverse that links up with the lowest sit start of Starter Pack. Crux is some tricky footwork leading into a left hand bump-drop into the starting crimps of the Starter Pack sit start.

Start on jug undercling under roof, same as Lunge or Plunge(low). Climb out the roof and right through the block feature avoiding jugs at the top of Blind Spot make big move to crimp and finish same as Skull Crusher. 

Start all the way under the roof on left facing jug. Pull through crimps to block, finish same as Blindspot.

Sit start on the corner, feet on detached rock. Work right on good holds then straight up to slightly dusty finish.

Start matched under low roof with very strange feet-first bicycle on lip. Move out to little pinch at lip, bump and climb straight up to stance on face.

Start left hand in pocket, right hand side pull. Move through pockets to deadpoint move. Finish on flat jug.

Start with your hands in the crack in the middle of the roof.  This is the same start as Dry Route.  Climb left, following Dry Route, dropping down after the crux to link into Lunge or Plunge.  The hardest section is linking the problems, but there still is a pump crux at the finish.

One move wonder!   Start in the deep pockets at head height and get airborne, launching up and left for the massive ledge. 

  The ledge tends to stay wet days after rainfall.

Slappey McCracken was developed in May 2017 and is located on Amusement Wall. 

Start in the crack on the far right side of the boulder. Follow the crack up and left on good holds, then top out on dirty holds.

Eliminate boulder. Start on weird side pull and ok pocket at lip of the bottom roof then go up to the crack jug, then out to crimp and finish on the obvious  big jug before the arete.

Start on a flat hold to the right of "Dry Route". Make a big reach to a slot at the lip, then core up and make some dead points to get to the jug.

Shaded wall down the main path just past the Clearcreek and Dad's Walls. Pretty clean, lots of great moderates, a few nice warmups, and some bouldering on the left side of the wall. Somewhat popular, but an awesome spot to meet other climbers in the area. The Ohio Climbers Coalition built a retaining wall on the right side to help level out the belay area on the right side of the wall that was seeing a lot of erosion issues. Now you can get some great climbs in without having to worry about sliding in the mud after a rainy day. This wall tends to stay dry (except for Slingshot and Knope We Can) after a rain.

 For more information about the bouldering area, check out this awesome pocket bouldering guide created by Cole Musial: MRG Pocket Guide

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Amusement Wall