From Bjornstad's 1997

Desert Rock

:

P1: Climb a right-facing dihedral (5.9) to a short rotten band protected by a bolt, then climb a 5.11 left-facing dihedral to a 3-bolt hanging belay under a roof, 165' (50m).  Garrett: "Great 5-star pitch."

P2: Continue left through a roof, following a thin right-facing dihedral to a traverse, and right past 2 bolts to a belay ledge.

P3: A short pitch which ascends an easy, then steep bolt ladder to the top.

Mr. Tambourine Man

The Turkey's Crevasse

Swiss Gentleman

South Face

Eric Bjornstad's

Desert Rock

simply says that this route ascends the "northeast corner" of the tower.

Since this is the descent route, we observed 2 belay/rap stations: 1 is a hanging belay about 100' up the route, the other is on a sloping ledge about 50' above the first.

The first pitch has pin scars at the bottom of the route, following a thin seam up for about 50'.  The crack widens quickly to chimney size, and continues at this size for another 50 feet before becoming hand/fist sized, and passing through a roof.  It appears to remain in the thin hands to fist range the rest of the route.

The route is shown in other photos, since it is the standard descent from the right (east) tower.  For example:

Looking up Swiss Gentleman after the rap.

From Eric Bjornstad's 1997

Desert Rock

:

[P0: Climb a 50' 5.6 pitch to gain access to the top of the pedestal.]

P1: Climb a splitter crack up the center of the south face.

P2: Continue up and left through a rotten chimney to better rock, with face climbing to the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turkey Tower