This is a great first lead for the beginning trad leader.  It follows the obviouse line up the crack.  You can throw cams in it the whole way.  Ryan and I cleaned the bush away from the base of the climb.

Humble Beginnings

Repent Now or Die

Basket Case

Eagle's Face

Klingon Arete

Ryan in a Bikini

The Era of Tara

Eagle's Wing

Eagle Chimney

Nano Pitch

Butt Crack

Cool Air

Suck it Up Princess

Every woman has her charm.

137 lbs of Fury

Batman Surprise

Great jams the whole way but plenty of other things to grab onto if you dont like to get your hands dirty.  After the crack pinches shut, your difficulties are behind you.  You can stop at a ledge at the top of the "cheeks" or keep going for another 30 feet of 5th class along the blocky arete to the top of the formation where there are better anchor options.

This climb fallows the flakes curving from the left and up to the middle.  These are fun underclings!  Near the top is an overhang with a diving board feature in the way.  Don't short change yourself on this climb!  Pull the roof!  It's tempting to go around it, but I'm going to designate that as off route!

I marked the FA as TBD, because I don't think anyone has climbed this before, but having rope-solod it, claiming an FA doesn't seem right.  I didn't weight the system so I believe I free-climbed the route, but it's still not an FA.  Maybe if I can come back with a belayer I can get the FA.

Pull a small roof while battling a small arete that forces you off balance.  There appear to be these little geode crystal type thingies in a layer of the arret.  After that, traverse a crack and continue up the fall-line.

Start in the small alcove/cave on the north side of the Eagle rock formation. An easier way to start is to traverse a bit to the right to the edge of the alcove then go up and back towards the obvious line up the face. Careful when finding holds, the rock doesn't look bad but can be very chossy at some spots. I broke a foothold and fell about five feet right onto my back. Be careful!

Remember the Star Trek: The Next Generation episode where Worf sustains a spinal injury and needs a new spine?  Well, this ridge reminded me of that episode, and so that's why I'm calling it the Klingon Arete.  The ridge has some Klingon spinal features, especially near the top.

This ridge appears to have a number of interesting exits near the top.  I took the easiest one.  The others looked interesting as they were a bit over-hanging.

I gave this one 4 stars for the area.  Honestly I would probably give it 3 stars compared to other quartzite climbs i have done(like in Rock Canyon).  The draw back of this one is that it is in the sun and its a long hike to get there.  Start just right of the overhanging area.  There i a small dihedral starting about 15-20 ft up.  This is the climb.  Start underneath the roof and climb into the dihedral.  Clip the first bolt and continue up until you clip the third bolt.  From here it is all trad until you get the chain anchors at the top.  Crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt just getting into the dihedral.  Watch out it is steeper than it looks.  However, the climbing eases at the top.  Cheers

This climb is located a couple routes to the left of what we like to call 'the butt crack', this climb uses only trad gear but has plenty of places to set protection.

Start on the west side of the eagle rock formation and go straight up the face. The crux for me was about 10 feet up where the holds get a bit scarce and you need to be a bit creative with holds using the arete to the north. Walk off the east side of the rock formation.

Fun chimney climb on the south side of the rock shaped like an eagle. You can get up into the chimney with a few easy jug holds. The crux is at the top of the chimney when you have to navigate around a boulder that's jammed in the crack to get to the top. Easy walk-off to the east of the rock formation.

This is a good climb for beginners.  It's not very fulfilling for anyone else.

I gave this 3 stars, because you get a great sense of exposure on this climb as it angles out over an over-hanging arete.  It's a mixed route.  You need trad-gear and there are two bolts to clip on the way up.  I belayed Ryan Lauck as he on-sighted the climb as a trad-lead.  I've only top-roped it.  The top anchors are easily accessible by hiking to the top of the crag, though I recommend putting yourself on belay before approaching the top-anchors.  Do not mistaken the top-anchors for Batman Surprise with the top-anchors for this climb!  There is a nasty sharp edge above the top-anchors for this climb, so if you're using the right anchors, the edge doesn't affect anything.

A variation of this climb is about 5.10 that just goes straight up the fall-line.  Ryan Lauck climbed this too.

Enjoy the shade ...and stop whining about the approach.

Follows a line of good jugs and incut edges up a slightly overhanging pillar of solid quartzite.

Work your way through the techy start past the first two bolts.  Hug the pillar as the grade hits the steeper crux and trust that more big holds await to help clip the third bolt.  There is an intrusion of quartz near the top that looks chossy from the ground but is some of the best rock and sports cool knobs.

You just have to know where to look for it.

There's a small ledge on the way up.  The only trouble I had was the last move to the top.  I'm sure there was an easier way.  I'm just retarded.

spicy for sure.  It is not 100 clean.  We did it ground up style so the pro is sparse for the fist section.  It is enjoyable face climbing that leads into a crack climb higher up.  I will be up to clean it a little more.  As I was doing the first section I was reminded of hard grit type routes.  Don't try this climb unless you are comfortable with 5.8+, it could be an ankle buster or more.

This is a fun beginner climb.  If you want, you can do a fun arm-bar and knee lock, and I felt like there was a bit of chimny movement in there too.

Beware -- this route was given it's name for good reason.  ;)  Bring a mask and anticeptic wipes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Farmington Crag