Scramble up solid and loose rock from the gully to a nook with small belay ledge, which doesn't offer much space or anchor opportunity.  Climb easy 5th class on mostly solid blocks, with avoidable tundra patches, through cleaner and more solid blocky rock into a corner with a crack.  Climb the crack, with features on the faces of both corners, up and through a small roof.  Exit left onto a low angle slab, then scramble up to the big tundra ledge for a gear anchor.

Wisdom

Ghost of a Smile

Timeless

Beast of Burden

Leggo My Ego

Fisticuffs

Book of Easy Learning

Nineveh

Not of this State

Vein Imagination

This route starts right of Timeless and climbs wet rock into a crack system. Belay off of gear and move slightly left into a short off width.  

  Note: You can access the offwidth pitch from the anchor on Timeless by moving right.

Make a short, somewhat exposed traverse rightward off the large ledge to a finger-hand crack start into excellent face climbing on small edges that become easier the higher you get.

The length, exposure, rock quality, and movement of this climb make it a Chugach classic.  Start in the gully below the belay ledge nook for Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning.  Climb a face-arete for five bolts (careful: the nut on the fifth bolt is loose and needs to be tightened) to a crack.  Ascend the crack (probably the crux of the route) with gear to a prominent rock ledge.  Follow the angled ledge up and to the left.  There's another bolt at the left end of the ledge; it's ~35m to this point.  Two options from here: build an anchor using the bolt and a thin crack to its right (small cam and medium stopper), or clip the bolt and continue up passing two more bolts (and cracks that can be used to reduce runout) then move right to a nice ledge with two bolt anchor.  The ledge with the two bolt anchor is a much more comfortable belay spot for pitch two, but it's about 40-45m from the ground and there will be some rope drag finishing the first pitch (use extended draws accordingly).  However, this will reduce rope drag on pitch two.  From the two bolt anchor, ascend the crack system with gear to the top of the tower.  The top of the tower is large and flat with another two bolt anchor (which should be replaced soon).  Walk-off recommended (double-rope rappel possible).

Delicate and balance-y face climbing on excellent Chugach rock with a steep start that eases to less than vertical.

Climb a clean fist crack, with featured faces on both sides, through a very small roof exiting left in the rock choked upper crack to a large tundra ledge with gear or sling belay.

Climb the chimney-crack system utilizing stems, edges, jams, and jugs.

Excellent 5.11- face climbing through relatively clean and solid, bolt-protected Chugach rock to a small ledge.  Trad finish up a short, vertical 5.10- hand crack. 

  Start from a nice belay ledge into an open corner for the first bolt then out onto the face and directly up for five more bolts to the small ledge below the short hand crack finish. 

  Top out the hand crack to another small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor on the right.

Several well reviewed climbs live back in this alpine environment.  A bit a journey to get there but worth the hike.  A full day adventure is to be had if you going here!  Can be very windy and cold and can snow any day it damn well pleases.  Not uncommon for it to be 70 in town and have it snow up here on you so bring lots of warm clothes!  Cell service is spotty at best so be prepared for anything.  Have fun!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Wedge