This route is a good variation to the Northwest Face.  Has 3 options to finish the 2nd half of it.  Zolar Direct, Northwest Corner, or the 9/8 crack just left of the Northwest Corner and just right of Zolar Direct.

Zolar Czakl

Scrundle Corner

Flake

The Unknown

Northwest Face

Candelaria's Crack

.... Variation of Mickey Mantel

Zolar Czakl (Direct)

Mickey Mantel

The Heartland

Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle?

South Face Roof

Smooth Groove

Undocumented Free Roof

Southwest Chimney

Begin on top of the water pipe at the mouth of the tunnel and climb the steep and thin flake on the R side. Climb up to a roof and stay L up the great face.  This is a nice face climb and also number 3 in the picture.

Disregard what the "new Boulder Canyon guidebook" says about this corner. This route is not 5.8. Scramble up onto the grassy ledge on the south side of the 4th above the apple tree. Start up the large, right-facing corner, and stay to the left through the bulge (3" cam 5.9). Continue up the obvious, right-facing dihedral to about mid-height where a thin, steep, difficult-to-protect 5.9+ crux is encountered. This is heady and bold! Stay in the classic corner to its top. I'm sure others have climbed this obvious corner before, I think I notice old pin scars at the crux. After much needed scrubbing and trundling (thus the name), this classic line is cleaning up nicely....

Approached from below the water pipe, go up a gently sloping ramp that lies directly below the ledge that splits "

The Heartland

."  I began this climb at the far end of the ramp starting with exposed, marginally protected, dirty climbing.  After about 40 feet, the rock quality gets better as the route appears to connect with a traverse underneath a small roof.  Continue straight up, through a discontinuous dihedral feature and gain the "

Heartland

" ledge.  Belay from here and topout via many possibilities from the ledge.

Anyone know anything about this???

Begin on top of the water pipe at the mouth of the tunnel and pull across to the horizontal crack. A #0.5 Friend is nice to protect this first section. Follow the crack to the bottom of a vertical crack. Follow this up to some blocks and either jam right (5.6) or left (5.9, #5a). Either way ends up on beautiful 5.8 cracks to the summit.

Descent: walkoff.

Extra credit: wade the tunnel all the way through the 4th Buttress.

This is a reasonable section of rock, with 30' of good climbing.  Some less desirable stuff must be climbed to access it, however.

25' more of good climbing is on the area just below and right of this, on the top of Endgame (10a, 1.5-2" crack) for a total of about 55' feet of quality climbing.

Instead of scrambling up to the grassy ledge, start from the very bottom near the apple tree.

Pitch 1 - carefully start up the decomposed slab to big jugs below the large roof that helps gain the wall. Place a yellow Alien/TCU in the small, diagonal crack in the steep face left of the roof crack. A pink Tri-cam fits well at the lip of the roof crack. Be sure of these pieces because the powerful moves over the roof (5.10b) could spit you off.... Follow the diagonal seem up and right. Climb straight up through a small roof to gain the classic, left-facing corner (5.9) above. Mantel onto the beautiful ledge to set a belay. Climbing this whole route as 1 pitch is possible, but rope drag is not fun....

Pitch 2 - climb the arching, right-facing corner (5.10a) past wild moves above the belay ledge. Continue up the moderate ramp to gain the obvious corner crack (5.8) on the back (east) side of the Green Gargoyle tower. Jam the hand crack in the corner to the top of the Green Gargoyle.

Lots of incredible holds and crack climbing make this a really classic route!

Start about 10 feet right of the tunnel and climb the dihedral up to the roof. Either join

Flake

to the left or take the "Direct" route straight up from the roof to some small roof/crack features. The variation is runout, just like

Flake

on the face.  Number 4 in the pic.

This is surprisingly good with good moves and good rock, once you get going.

P1: (5.9, 100') Climb up a few moves down and right of the right-facing corner (accessing from the left is harder and loose) step up on good holds into the corner and head upward. The climbing there is runout, but not hard (5.8). Continue up the corner and eventually left on face moves to reach a right-facing corner, now perhaps 12 meters off the ground. Climb this corner on jams and stems (5.9) to reach a ledge. There is no cave,

per se

, as mentioned in Rossiter's book, but rather a small recession with a chockstone in it. Belay here on good gear.

P2: (5.10, 100') The crux is the awkward mantle. It needs a good brushing and is very hard to tackle directly, I got some chips for feet and layed back off of a high and right sloper, then knee-locked the corner to move up into a mantle. It felt solid 5.10 to me. A 3/4" cam protects these moves with a ledge and belayer just below, hoping you don't fall on either the ledge, or belayer....

Get up on this ledge and move the gear up to avoid drag.  There is a crack directly above to finish up to a ramp, but it was considerably more interesting to continue up and left on the ramp 20 feet to a taller crack...climbing that to another shelf, then out the shelf to a 3rd section of crack, reached via pulling a roof on jugs.  This last section might be 'Candelaria's Crack' (or might not be).  Finish on jugs and Belay up top by tossing the rope around a huge bollard of rock, or off of large cams.

Scramble off the back side to return to the streamside trail and your packs.

This has nice, exposed cracks on two short pitches on the Fourth Elephant Buttress. Start as you would for the

Northwest Face

, but continue right to a thin crack. Make an committing exposed step to the right and up the thin crack to a nice belay ledge. Pitch 2 begins by going around to the left of the dihedral and going up the the crack to the left of the dihedral to the top.

This route could be a lot better if it were cleaned up.  However, this side of the rock draws few climbers, and it is unlikely to clean up from traffic - something more deliberate would be required... if you do it, please take a brush.

From the "grassy ledge" on the Western side of the South Face of the 4th Elephant, search the wall above through some block bulges for 2 bolts, these are perhaps 15 meters to the right of the old aid roof.  If you are having trouble distinguishing where the aid roof is, there is a round-looking 4-foot wide chockstone with a handcrack on the left side of it just to the right of the old aid roof... but I digress....

Climb up towards the first of the 2 bolts from below and left, protecting on a few nuts and cams. The climbing is made somewhat insecure by lichen but is not terribly hard. Clip the first bolt and get into pinches and underclings (crux) to get to the second bolt. Clip that and head up into the last bulge (med stopper overhead) and fight up onto a sloping ledge (second crux).

Continue upward and slightly right on very moderate terrain with reasonable gear to the base of some obvious cracks (Endgame, 5.10a) and belay or continue to the top, depending on your level of rope drag.

A short practice aid climb.  Save it for cold winter day when nothing else is climbable.  This route goes all clean on mid size TCUs and .5 cam in the roof. A wobbly old-school blade is fixed in the roof, but you won't need to use it unless you want to.

Start up the large, right-facing corner off the grassy ledge (same start as

Scrundle Corner

). Move right on great edges to avoid the steep bulge above. Continue up the beautifully smooth groove and up into the long, clean, right-facing feature to the top. Classic line!

This is a moderate climb that must surely have been done before, but it does not match any documentation we could find. The crux lies in some fun and secure jamming and jugs coming out a left-leaning overhang at the right side of the old aid roof.  The remainder of the climbing is mostly easier, mostly solid, and it is all well-protected.

The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof. This lies just to the right of a lower angle system that might be more commonly used.  Despite its steepness in a few spots, it is not hard.  It may be about 5.7 or 5.8 with good protection.  The angle reduces as you approach the roof, and you may notice a fixed angle in a horizontal crack in the last small bulge before the roof.  Come up and into the roof and place a hand-sized cam in an overhanging, left-leaning crack behind what looks like a huge chockstone that forms the right-hand side of the roof and climb out that on jams and jugs.  This is surprisingly easy given its appearance, with a grade of perhaps 5.9- for only a move or two, and has good protection.

Continue up over the bulge and get established on the crack system at the right hand edge of the rib of rock you are now on, following that line to just below a summit where a cable anchor with aluminum rap-rings can be accessed.

In case you are unable to identify this route as a bomb line, and against all better judgment decide to climb it anyway, be warned!  This chimney has a large, very loose death block resembling a 10' torpedo perched on end.  A gentle tap of the foot is enough to wobble this two ton mass of granite on its base.

If it were not for the scary block and abundant choss, this route does have 20-30' of decent chimney and might appeal to someone looking to improve their skills in that area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fourth Buttress