This route ascends the northeast arete of the prominent pillar on the northeast side of Castle Rock proper.

While setting up a toprope is a pain in butt, this crux section of this climb involves some interesting footwork that makes it worth the effort.

To start head up the arete using the more-formed sandstone on the right face, but occasionally using a softer foot around the corner. Work up to the undercling set about 20 feet off the ground, and then keep to the arete to the top.

There is a possible variation that would head up and right from the undercling, avoiding the arete but moving up a slopey bulge using small chips that give traction in the soft sandstone of the bulge.

I believe that the face just to the right of this climb was an existing route, but there was a small dead shrub at the top of this route that literally melted when I touched it, and also a small sized block that appeared to be a hold that pulled out, leaving a good sidepull hold.

Stevensons Need Not Apply

Castle Ridge/Castle Rock Arete

Listed as two separate routes in Bay Area Rock. Castle Ridge 5.5R and Castle Rock Arete 5.6X.

Start at the base of the obvious spine of rock that eventually leads up towards Castle Rock, the highest rock outcropping in Pine Canyon. Follow the ridge up, with some climbing at the beginning and various points along the ridge. Crux for me was towards the bottom on an insecure feeling slab move. You can climb off the ridge to the left at about half way next to some bolts and a tree. You also stop when the ridge ends just before Castle Rock Arete. But if you continue you are quickly vertical again, a bit steeper then the ridge, but not hard. At the top climb to the left on carved holds from the summit (Summit Route 5.2) to descend. A fun short adventure right in the Bay.

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Protection

Routes in Castle Rock