plates and knobs angling right following seam to anchor

Seek and Ye Shall Find

Three Feathers

Burrito Bandito

Power To The People

Prolly Bomber

If Found Please Call

Begin working up rounded patina to knobs and plates on a dark steak. 20 feet above, cross left over to good knobs then head straight up. Mid way up, the knobs thin out (crux). Be sure to place a cam (orange TCU or gray Alien work the best......it's "prolly bomber"!) before making a few delicate moves before reaching decent knobs again. The climbing eases up 20 feet above the crux. Continue to a small ledge with a 2-bolt ring anchor. Lower off or rap (100'). Be sure to use a 70 meter rope!

Of the moderate routes listed in the

'Shuteye Ridge'

guidebook, it's this authors opinion that 'Three Feathers' (5.9+) is a classic gem at Lost Eagle! A must do! Like the rest of the Melting Wall routes, this is a pure trad route, allowing one to sling knobs and slot nuts and small cams between patina plates. The route is signatured by three distinct runnels, seperated by vertical fins and plates.

Begin up the middle "feather" and work up on knobs and fins, slotting nuts and cams. Seize the opportunity to get in pro when its available. The moves through the middle of the route are very enjoyable and wild, several high step rock overs and stemming from fin to fin. This route can seem to be a bit runout to some if not familiar with creative knob slinging and horizontal nut slotting. Continue upward. Eventually, the climbing eases up and one arrives at a 2-bolt ring anchor on ledge (90'). Lower from here.

A fun addition to the Melting Wall, a wild and knobby veritcal face, just left and above the apron area. Burrito Bandito is a "knob slingin' fest" which starts just left of two parallel seams (a route called Prolly Bomber, 5.10b). Climb straight up passing rounded patina before reaching better holds. Sling the first good knob encountered, which is shaped like a burrito. From this knob, move up and slightly left to a series of side pulls to gain tightly spaced patina (good for slotting nuts and small cams). Continue straight up, slinging knobs and slotting nuts. Eventually, the knobs get bigger and the climbing eases off. When the knobs begin to peter out, locate a small ledge with 2-bolt ring anchors. Lower or rap off. A 70 meter rope will barely reach.

Pitch #1:

Begin by climbing up the short crack on the right side of the flake. Once at the top of the flake, stand and clip a bolt on the left side of the face. Make a few insecure moves on small sloping knobs and patina along a shallow runnel (5.9). There are a few spots to sling small knobs above before reaching the next bolt  (somewhat runout). Follow the runnel for 20' then move out left onto the face, passing 2 more bolts before reaching the base of a vertically "striped" patina face. From below, this feature appears like the back of a clenched fist, thus the routes given name. Step up to the base of the "fist" and clip a bolt. Follow up the patina, moving left then right to reach good knobs to sling. Continue upward to a huge knob. Surmount the knob then head to the 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Pitch #2:

Most folks rap from here using 2 ropes. Otherwise, continue up on the open slab, passing several good pro options. Reach a large bench-like rock (90'). Belay from here on pro. No bolts. From here, walk up and left to reach the descent gully (rather bushy but doable).

On a historical note, the first ascentionist placed the second bolt AFTER completing the FA. So, when you're on the route, imagine not having that second bolt. Yep! Originally rated 5.9X.

Start just right of where the ledge steps up about four feet following seams and knobs to the shared anchor with Seek and Ye Shall Find.

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Routes in Melting Wall