Mug Shot

Safe Cracker

Off Scott Free

3rd Offense

40 to Life

The Latrine

St. Valentines Day Massacre

Mr. Meanor

Soap on a Rope

Crux is the start, at least for my sub-six-foot frame.  Long reach (throw) to small edge, and some more thin moves at the bottom.  Start was considerably easier for my 6'4" partner.

I've never seen this route named, so I'm taking the liberty. All the routes on this wall are good, and although it's pretty easy, it's one of the better ones. This and 3rd Offense are the only two all gear routes on this wall. Good pro, and one somewhat awkward move...

Follow the obvious, direct line. There is no lowering station at the top, but you can return to the base by walking off and downclimbing a short slot/gully to climber's L. You may have to hunt a bit for the descent, but there are cairns at key points that will keep you from going astray. Use care when downclimbing the slot/gully, as a slip here could send you for a long slide with an abrupt stop.This line was established as a free solo, so in keeping with current mores, it must be done in the same style in order to preserve the experience of the first ascensionist. (...kidding...!)

Thin moves on the lower part, crux is around the 2nd/3rd bolt.  Squeezing the Lemmon says 5.9, but there was a discussion once with the consensus being more like 5.10.  Fun face climb.

Good fun. With some chimney stemming and good smearing.

This is currently the rightmost route on the same wall as Mr Meanor.  Start right of a large flat boulder and a few feet right of the first bolt.  Move up to clip the first bolt, then follow an obvious white streak/ridge.  Go straight up after clipping the fourth bolt.  Clip the fifth and last bolt and scramble up slightly right 15-20 feet to the chains.

I felt the crux was getting some tricky gear in midway up on a less than perfect stance.  Otherwise it protects well and and has a few bolts.

I drilled anchors on this route but did not find the climbing to be good enough to warrant drilling it for lead.  There are several ways to do this route:   mantling up the smooth slab and working rightleads you to a large roof with somewhat chossy rock, pulling over this is probably a 10- move, perhaps more difficult for shorter people.  If you move left and go through the smaller section of roof, there are several very small, difficult to find crimps that create a one or two move 5.11.  One can also move very far left to a small section of crack that is probably 5.6 or so.

The Mr. Meanor Wall receives early morning shade but is otherwise sunny.  The rock tends to be solid with decent friction.  Be aware that 40 to Life and St. Valentine's Day Massacre are the only sport routes on this cliff and even then there is debate.  These routes see a lot of traffic and parties frequently move these ropes between the anchors to toprope the traditional lines. 

Topropes and The Latrine do not actually reside on the Mr Meanor Wall proper nor are they actually routes in my opinion.  These two "routes" are located directly in front of the Mr. Meanor Wall, directly across from Jailhouse Rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mr. Meanor Wall