Fun climbing that packs a great variety into a short pitch.

Did You Eat Disco Biscuits?

Blunderbuss

Bite Me! Lorax

The Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse  1

Swashbuckler

Fixing the Ferris Wheel

Scepter of the Green Man

Oftedal Serenade

Waiting For The Sun

Wyld Stallions

The Mithras Equinox Shift Traverse  2

Last Of The Pagans

Still Fuc%ing Waiting

Jim Dandy to the Rescue

Full Charge

Short and sweet, fun pockets - poop in some takes away a star for me though.

Slightly cruxy start then climb through several HPLs (horizontal pocket lines) on great holds. The guidebook calls this 10b but it is much easier than

The Last Pagans

next door.

Begin as with Oftedal Serenade but at the chimney around bolt 6, stem over behind you and transfer to the other wall.  Slabble dabble up to the chains.  Not as fun as Oftedal but good nonetheless.

Start on Swashbuckler, finish on Oftedal Serenade.

Start in a thin seam down low, then pull up and left onto gorgeous jugs to finish at the bulge.

Start on balancy terrain and move through bulges, use thinner pockets and a fin to reach the anchor.

The business of this route is right after you step off the ground and seems to be a bit harder the shorter you are.  Great water sculpted pockets lead you up into a chimney.  Stay left and continue up until you can step right and transfer onto the knife blade feature.  Not very hard but very cool, opposing side pulls actually pull outward so you can walk your feet up this crazy fin.  A great and unique CK creation.

Ramble up the three bulges. A little harder than its neighbors to the left.

Start on Swashbuckler, finish on Bite Me.

Cool climbing up the bulges on dreamy buckets.  The clipping stancefor the anchor chains is off of under clings forcing a strange move.

Climbs through the 3 bulges. The final bulge is the test, a long reach helps otherwise youll have to tick tack the small crimps.

Traverse left on jugs with empty feet to shoot the black bulge on reachy pockets with a cruiser finish

Creep onto the wall under the roof and carefully ease your way through the first crux. Wind up and left to reach the giant pockets and traverse right, under the roof, to turn the lip near the crack. Regroup at the ledge stance, then follow giant pockets up the creamy headwall. The black bulge guards the anchor; there are no more big buckets. Fantastic route! Long too. It's best to have a follower clean it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Full Charge Crag