This granite has some extreme weathering especially on the first pitch.   The Dolphin is made up of twin towers, the route navigates a thin crack / flake on the south tower and then the crack between the towers and goes into a tunnel and up and out the top of the tunnel and then east to the highpoint of the climb between the two towers.

Pitch 1: Start at the base of and slightly left of the centerline of South tower.  Initially slab climbing to a thin crack, small pro, the crack and slab needs more cleaning.  Continue up crack to a flake and the crack widens until it reaches a dogleg overhang.  Just before the overhang move left (north) on delicate slab moves and then up to a beautiful large mushroomed horn.  Takes a 48 inch sling.  From the top of the horn another 10 feet to a ledge on the right.  Gear belay and one piton. 115 feet, 5.9+

Pitch 2: Climb along a dihedral until you can step down to the trough between the two spires and follow a nice crack / groove at the bottom of the trough for about 100 feet.  Then another 90 feet into a cave between the two towers.  Nearing the back of the cave as it narrows there is a window in the roof  that opens up.  Climb up through the window and unto a nice ledge created by large Chock stones.  Gear Belay (note there will be rope drag)  197 feet 5.8.

Pitch 3: From the belay you can stem left (if long legged) or go right and then left around a boulder (and protection) and then cannoneer between the north spire and the boulder then gain the east side of the boulder next to the north tower's wall.   Either down climb or half jump to the next set of boulders and then climb to the high point on the extreme east end of the crevasse between the two towers.  Just before the high point climbing is easier if you go right again otherwise crack climb and crimps on moss covered holds if you go straight up on the left side.  50 feet 5.6 (right) 5.8 (left).

Rap off the back via a slung boulder.  Rappel is only 60 feet.  You have to walk off south and then down the south side (going west) of the spire with some low class 5 down climbing.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dolphin Spire