Scrappy 10a up the obvious line of weakness on the eastern portion of Panther Peak.  Gear is pretty good the whole way, and the climbing is varied.  Direct finish looks like more fun and is harder than original - FRA team caught in a thundersnow storm and had to hurry off.

Description and main photo mostly borrowed from Daniel's cool website

sekiclimbing.com/panther-pe…

P1 At the low point on the south face, take the deceptively hard low angle ramp up and left to a big ledge above.

P2 Head up the chimney, and make your way up the crack systems to the left of the steep headwall.  Belay where you feel like it, braj.

P3 continue up the same system, angling slightly left to belay at the base of a licheney dihedraley chimneyish corner.

P4 head up through the chimney, curse the bush at the top, and belay where it feels good.

P5-6 Original - head up the 3rd/4th class gulley and then left up a ramp.  Traverse off the west side of the summit.

P5 Direct - From the top of P4, climb up and to the righ tof the chimney and then take the cracks that lead to an OW in a small roof.  Climb this and follow the zig-zag wide cracks to the summit.

Rack 'em up, Reid

Hyde and Hide

Superman

Liquid Gravity

Krymptonite

4 steep, outstanding pitches up near perfect westside rock! almost even mix of face and crack. grades are my guess

P1 - 10d - obvious splitter (10a) with crux face climbing past two bolts to get to the anchor which is one bolt and gear. shorter pitch

P2 - 11b - harder version of pitch 1. Steep 5.10 crack climbing (loose block wouldn't trundle) leads to 2 bolt face climbing crux. 2 bolt anchor under a roof.

p3 - 11b - Traverse delicately out right until you can get some thin gear in a shallow corner. Mantle up and clip the first bolt. kinda spooky. needs a bolt there imo. Steep face climbing on mostly good but spaced holds leads past ten bolts or so, generally up and left, to a two bolt anchor on a sweet ledge. Pumpy. One of the best granite face pitches ever

P4 - 11a - Easy but runout climbing up the arete leads to a few cracks that take gear. Once the arete steepens, bolts start showing up. Steep and sustained to the top in a spectacular position. 2 bolt anchor

P5 - 5.8 - Alpiney ridge climbing leads to the next higher summit, from which you can unrope.

Descent - Easily walk off the backside backdown to the saddle in the ridge and your packs.

A fun line up a corner system and a curving finger crack on an open face. 2, 100ft pitches. Could be combined into one long, awesome pitch if you stretched a 70m, but you might be short on the rappel.

P1: Climb the corner system originating at the base of the wall until it widens to a belay stance. Throw some finger sized pieces in for a belay where the P2 curved finger crack begins. Takes a variety of gear from .2 - 4. The bottom is a little wide and you can bump a 4 along with you for a ways but then the crack narrows and it's fingers + slabby feet to the belay. Goes about 10a/b.

P2: Take off up the right leaning finger crack nearest the corner system you just climbed. You probably made your belay in the very crack system and now need to put your foot in the space that orange Metolius is occupying...deal with that, then continue upward. Crack becomes thin fingers and tips as it joins a vertical crack system and nears the roof. Roof takes two 3's and uses the crack splitting the roof, some desperate smearing, and foot jams to move around the bulge. The fingers goes at 10b/c. The roof about 10+...it is difficult to compare to the rest of the climb but really exciting ; pumpy, short, and allows you to be creative.

Descent: Double rope rap...would stretch a 70. Once atop the spire, scramble down onto the ledge between you and the wall to your north. Rappel into the large gully towards the main Panther Peak formation.

P1 - 12a, 80' - Just left of Krymptonite, climb the obvious hand crack and fist crack (10a) getting a #3 BD in the back.  Easier big hands at the top with small gear available out left leads to the top of the pillar.  Only quickdraws are needed from here until P4.  Hard moves off the pillar (crux) leads up the arete (5.11).  At the top of the pitch, go right around the corner (better) or stay left for an easier, dirtier option.  Finish at a good stance with a two bolt anchor.

P2 - 11a, 80' - Continue up the right side of the arete on excellent face climbing, eventually stepping left to a stance and a two bolt anchor.

P3 - 12b, 120' - Step back right and climb up perfect white granite (5.11) to the base of the roof.  Fire the improbable roof sequence (crux) or fly like Superman into free space.  Climb through a rattly block (would not trundle) through steep, yet easier terrain.  Once back on vertical terrain, either cut left slinging some optional horns and a single bolt eventually joining Krymptonite , or head right to join the last two bolts of Krymptonite.  Belay on the big ledge on top of Krymptonite's P3.

P4 - 10b, 140' - Head up and left from the anchor, placing a few pieces of gear intermixed with bolts.  Eventually gain a short arete to the top of the buttress.

P5 - Same as Krymptonite, ridge climbing leads to the next higher buttress, where it's possible to walk/scramble off.

Excellent face climbing on solid stone.

P1 11b, 40ft - Very steep and left-trending right off the ground.  Pull around the lip to lower angle terrain and a belay at a god stance.

P2 10d, 80ft - Less than vertical face climbing on great rock to a big ledge.  Maybe the best pitch on the route.

P3 11a, 50ft - Steep climbing up an interesting wide corner that is more face climbing than crack climbing.

P4 11d, 80ft - Exposed left-trending vertical face to steep hero jugs on the arete.  Continue up the arete to a belay on a ledge.  Wild!

P5 10b, 90ft - Climb up and right on less than vertical face that can be a bit dirty, but good rock.  Eventually join the last few bolts of Ailurophobia on the arete to the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Panther Peak