From below a dark water stain and groove that ends twenty feet above the ground, climb onto a shelf six feet above the base. Ascend the narrow water groove on large cobbles and the occasional pocket. Continue climbing up the cobbled slab as the water groove fades into the upper slab. Climb the loose low angle slab to an anchor below an orange roof system.

Easy Peazy Nice and Easy

Golden Years

The Serpent

Watermark

Casey at the Bat

Blackjack

Dirty Deeds

Babe Ruth

Head Wound

Righteous Babe

Golden Slumbers

Psychedelic Sally

Harvey

Blackout

Dugout

Hippie Chick

Charlie Hustle

Batter out (aka the best of both worlds)

Rockhopper

Begin climbing in a recessed area with a vertical section. Pull the steep wall on shallow pockets and side pulls. Continue up the face on pockets and large cobbles as the face transitions to a water groove. The 1st pitch is 90 feet.

Pitch 1: Climb up the water groove to a bolted belay on the ledge (5.6).

Pitch 2: Climb the line of bolts up a white water streak to the top of the cliff (5.8).

Pitch 1 (5.6)

Climb up a loose, low-angle water chute to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2(5.10a)

Climb up over a steep bulge and then follow the low-angle face to the left-hand of 2 water shoots.  A short, steeper crux section leads up the water chute to the anchor.  If you stray onto bigger holds on either side of the water streak, the rock quality diminishes significantly.

Make 2 rappels with a single 60m rope.

Right hand continuation from the first pitch belay station of the Serpent.  Climb past the 3rd bolt on the second pitch of the Serpent, then veer right.  Steep start, then lower angle slabby up to steeper section, which calms down for the cruise to the bolted anchor.  Nice.

Some small amount of loose rock to take care with on the rappel.

Caution:  as of 13 August 2009, there was a cracked hand hold above the first bolt past the belay station atop the first pitch of the Serpent.  Be solid and have your belayer pay close attention.  Falling enroute to the second bolt from the 1st pitch belay could have SEVERE consequences as there's a flat ledge at the belay stance.  Take care.

"Casey at the Bat" climbs the beautiful orange face via a prominent roof and the shallow dark watercourse at the left end of Easy Street. The climb is long and a rope stretcher, so be conscious of where the ends of the rope are! From a stance, on a block above the trail, climb the short face on pockets to gain a shelf below the roof. Pull the roof to a large pocket and continue up the steep headwall on small positive incut holds. Continue climbing through a bulge and a small corner on featured orange rock to an anchor on the left. This is one of the best 5.10s at Echo Cliffs and a deservedly popular route. Named for Doniel Drazin's dog, Casey.

Pitch 1: Start up the black-streaked, overhanging face. There is an anchor just after the end of the overhanging section that can be used to descend if you are only climbing the first pitch. Otherwise, continue to the higher anchor in the corner.

Pitch 2: Move right from the anchor and climb up beautiful edges.

Pitch 3: Continue with easy moves on somewhat crumbly rock to the top of the cliff.

Descend from the top by three rappels with a 60-meter rope.

Climb the first pitch of Golden Years.

From the bolted anchor on the ledge, follow the right-hand line of bolts to the top of the wall.

Ascend the left wall of the gully 30ft left (west) of "Golden Years." Climb up the black and gold water streak on positive edges and pockets passing 5 bolts to an anchor in the alcove below the black overhang. The 2nd pitch moves slightly left and ascends the steep bulge left of the overhang on small incuts and edges, passing 9 bolts on featured orange rock with numerous pockets and two steep bulges to the anchor.

P1: (5.7) Climbs another channel just to the right of massive black waterstreak in the channel of

Righteous Babe

.  A lot of loose rock, I can only wonder how this route got it's name. Considering it finishes at the double anchor I suggest just sticking to

Righteous Babe

's first pitch, it's better.

P2: (5.9) A great pitch, best finish from the dual anchors of the three choices you have. From the anchor climb right, following the bolt line to a vertical section.  A couple of fun moves pull you onto the wall where it eases up a bit. The end holds one more surprise, best moves of the route.

I can't be definitive about the length.  I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare.  Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.

P1: (5.7) Start in a channel with a very obvious black water streak.  The first 40 feet are the steepest of the pitch, coming in a bit shy of vertical for a couple moves.  It then eases up considerably.  Follow up the slab to a small ledge at the base of a small wall.  There should be two sets of anchors, mussy clips on your left and rings on your right.  Use the Mussy anchor if continuing on to P2.  A fun 5.9 (

Head Wound

) veers right.

P2: (5.8) Traverse slightly left and pull over the wall wherever suits you.  Continue up some slab for a could of clips.  The route will bifurcate yet again.  Go left up the less steep, yet better rock, of the two.  A fun move pulls onto the wall and jugs bring you to two open shuts.

I can't be definitive about the length.  I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare.  Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.

"Golden Slumbers" (5.5) begins at the toe of the broad buttress, ten feet left of "Golden Years."

Climb the apron until it steepens into a blocky, cobbled buttress. Ascend the buttress passing

5 bolts to share the anchor with "Golden Years."

Climb the steep buttress between "The Serpent" & "Righteous Babe" passing 7 bolts on blocky, cobbled rock typical of this portion of Echo Cliffs. The first bolt is quite high, but the climbing is casual and there's a large elliptical hole to stand in and clip from. Well protected and moderate climbing on positive edges and an assortment of pockets. The loose cobbles and exploding blocks definitely add to the adventure.

"Harvey" is located between "Golden Years" and "The Serpent."

Pitch 1: (5.5) Ascend the blocky, cobbled buttress above the apron of rock right of "Golden Years" to a headwall. Climb the headwall past a low angle groove. Climb the upper buttress on fun pockets past a total of 7 bolts to the anchors.

Pitch 2: (5.8) surmount an initial bulge to gain the ever steepening orange buttress. Climb the buttress past 10 bolts on fun well protected positive edges and pockets to the 2-ring anchor.

A link-up. Begin as for Blackjack, but after clipping its 3rd bolt hand traverse right past an undercling hold and clip an independent bolt (once this bolt is clipped, you may want to unclip the previous bolt to reduce rope drag). Continue right to join Dugout at its 3rd bolt. A slightly more difficult start than the regular route.

Start up Casey at the Bat. After clipping the first bolt head left over a bulge and onto the face above. Some of the rock is crumbly.

This route can also be done by starting on Blackjack and moving right after clipping the third bolt. In this case the route is called Blackout.

An extension from the dual anchors at P1 of

Righteous Babe

,

Head Wound

, or

Rockhopper

.  Head left as for

Righteous Babe

and move right to the steeper of the two headwalls as the route splits.  Pulls onto a vertical wall with thin, questionable holds.  The first couple moves are thin and look like some holds have recently broken.  I don't think a valid rating will apply to this route until it sees more traffic and whatever holds are strong enough to stick around start to stick out.  Still a lot of loose rock.

I can't be definitive about the length.  I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare.  Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.

Begin climbing twenty feet right of Casey at the Bat. Climb up left of the large horizontal roof and pull the bulge on pockets. positive edges, and blocky cobbles. Once through the bulge trend to the left to a steep step just below the P1 anchor. From the belay move right and pull a bulge on small positive holds. Continue up the face to the anchor.

Combines the best rock between Dugout and Casey at the bat, bypassing the chossy section at the bottom of Dugout. Awesome rock and fun moves on the upper section.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Easy Street