This is the direct and safer start to Midnight Special. Climb up the starting dike of Terror Crack to the ledge at 5-10 up. Follow three bolts up the slab and move right into the flake (gear). Pull over onto the ledge and finish up Midnight Special.

Midnight Direct

Strychnine

Orthanc

Comfortably Numb

Still Gettin' Booty

Rawhide

Spirit Guide

The Stroke

Suicide Wall

The Gloaming

Islands

Man Eater

Sweat Lodge

Raven Song

Terror Crack

Tardis

An Aztec Nightmare

Earth and Sky

Lost Heroes

Relic

Sacred Fire

Onslaught

Toltec Dream

Way of the Peaceful Warrior

Midnight Special

The Wayback Machine

Hanta Yo

Velvet Underground

Pirates of Longstack

Thunder Island

Begginer's Route

This is the original line of the chimney. Start the climb right on an easier dike feature just right of Velvet Underground. Climb the dike to a large ledge. Walk left across the ledge to the base of the chimney. Climb the chimney to trees above.

P1: Start up a small dike behind a large oak tree to a bolt 10 up. Continue up the dike to the large flake/corner with gear. Continue up the face placing gear to a bolt. Continue over the bulge placing gear past another small headwall to a third bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree and walk left to the anchor on Suicide Wall. 100   P2: Walk right from the anchor along a ledge. Pull the bulge and follow the slab to a second head wall. Finish at the pine tree on top. 40'

Orthanc climbs the obvious blocky left facing corner up the entire cliff. Start to the right of the massive corner and work your way up and left to the base of it. Climb the dangerous blocky corner past small trees to the top of the cliff and solid ground. I would not recommend this route for it is dangerous for the leader and belayer. 160'   5.8 R/X

This takes a pretty direct line in between Suicide Wall and Strychnine. Although some of the moves are close to Strychnine in the first 30 feet, it's a completely independent line. Pull on the wall with a somewhat stout start and connect the flake features that lead up the wall with some thin sections in betweeen. Pull over a bulge on big holds and crimp up the final slab that has a tiny dike running up it to the anchor.

Start below the large chimney on Terror Crack. Climb the slab to a high black bolt. Gain a small tree ledge (bolt) and fire the crux slab to a flake. Follow the flake to the arete left of the chimney. Climb the juggy arete placing gear to a bolt anchor on top.

From the sloping belay above the 5" diameter pine tree, face climb up on easy but fun moves to a sloping slab under the headwall and overlap.  Make a long move past the overlap to a short diagonal crack and move right a few feet and up to a 5' deep tree ledge known as "Merrymeeting Ledge".  Continue straight up on easier ground passing a short flake, a bulge to a tree (stay left), and then diagonal up to tree belay.

From the pine tree belay ledge located 20' above the base trail (same start as for "Rawhide"), step right to a left facing flake and climb strait up through several tiers of steep slab separated by lower angled ledges.  After 45', pull the 2' roof on big horizontals and continue straight up then step slightly right onto "Merrymeeting Ledge"' the large tree covered ledge that cuts across the left end.  Follow the upper section of "Rawhide" to the belay trees and rap from the anchors located climber's left.

The Stroke shares a start and a tree anchor with Islands to the left. Start up Islands for about 25 and move right on a ledge to a lone bolt on a nice slab face. Pull the fun slab and continue up the headwall with horizontals for gear to the small birch clump. Move left to the large pine anchor. The protection bolt was placed free on the lead by hand.

This route starts in the vicinity of Midnight Special. P1: Climb up under the overlap and traverse right into a small right facing corner. Continue up changing corners to a blank slab. Move a bit left to a hidden flake and continue up and right to a bolt anchor. 100  5.8 PG-13   P2: Climb up the final headwall placing gear along the way to the top of the cliff. Climbing the face direct off the anchor is harder. Use a tree for an anchor. 50  5.8 

P1.  Climb the low angle, blunt arête to a ledge 25' up with two small oak trees.  Follow the face behind the left oak past horizontals to a bulge with a fixed pin just over the lip.  Clip the pin, then move right and up (5.5), or left and up a short flake over the lip (variation, 5.8).  Belay directly above on a sloping ledge at a cluster of small maple trees. 

  P2.  Climb straight up a low angle slab to the crux overlap and bulge, staying 10' left of the obvious flake system on "Relic" and 20' right of the shallow arching corner of "The Wayback Machine."  Place pro at the lip of the overlap, then mantle over it and move up the steep slab (5.7+, crux) to horizontals and easier climbing.  Continue straight up and slightly left on short, discontinuous diagonal finger cracks to finish below a large overhanging boulder at the top of the cliff.  Move right to belay at the tree atop "Relic." 

  A fun, optional 5.7 finish moves up the 15' tall wide-hands crack that splits the boulder above the belay tree.

Start about 15' right of Relic. Scramble up some broken sections of rock. Move up a series of big ledges (5.4 R) then move left into a flake system. Continue up the slab to an overlap and headwall with horizontals. Finish up the horizontal headwall to the large pine tree anchor.

To the right of Lost Heroes look for a large chimney halfway up the cliff, Terror Crack. Man Eater is an alternate  start to Terror Crack. Wander up the slab left of Velvet Underground placing gear when possible to a large ledge at the base of the chimney. Climb the chimney and finish at the trees above.

Start 20' right of Onslaught on a short slab with two small trees on the ledge above. Step right and follow the low angel slab with gear on climbers right of large pine tree on the ledge. Continue up the 5.8 slab (bolt) to gear under the overlap. Pull up on a large flake and clip a pin out right. Make the crux moves up the flake and seam to a stance (pin). Continue straight up on easier terrain to the pine tree anchor of Onslaught on the left. 115' 5.9+

This route takes a direct line from the start of Midnight Special straight to the top of the cliff.  Similar climbing to Suicide Wall with interesting moves and decent gear, but at an easier grade. 

  Start as for Midnight Special, heading up to the hollow flakes and block (good pro in suspect rock, first crux), then straight up to a lone ponderosa pine on a 12" deep ledge.  Continue up the clean rock directly above the tree following the line of least resistance, passing a tricky move at a long reach to a short flake (second crux).    

  Fun climbing leads to the top of the steeper rock at a pine tree growing downwards along the face (possible finish here by traversing right 15-20' to reach the double bolts atop Suicide Wall).  For the Direct Finish, step over the pine to a short dike and easy slabs (5.3R) heading for the final overlaps.  Pull through just left of a clump of birch trees at a V shaped notch (5.8ish?) or step left then up to the anchor tree atop the route (5.5).

Climb up the slab start of Onslaught to the first little headwall. Traverse left to the second left facing corner. Pull the small corner and move up the slab to the bulge. Pull the bulge using the good horizontals on the left placing gear until the horizontals end. Run it out up the slab to the large oak tree with an anchor above.

Climb the start of "A Toltec Dream," the cleaned slab to a fixed pin and the shorter slab leading to a left facing corner.  At the top of the corner, move right to a ledge then straight up through the small overlap to the larger tree ledge. 

  Continue straight up past a short, mossy slab to a brief section of wide cracks and flakes to a single 8" diameter pine tree.  Climb the face just right of the tree (crux) and then straight up through broken rock and right angling cracks to the tree belay.

Climb the dirty slab trending slightly right then back left to a short flake leading up to the first small overlap (pin).  Move straight up to the large overlap (pin) and traverse right (first crux, strenuous) on underclings to the inside corner leading to "Merrymeeting Ledge", a 5' deep ledge with trees.  Sling the largest tree up high and boulder straight up the steep friction slab/face (second crux) to an easy exit on good flakes.  Fixed webbing anchor with quick link.  A 60M rope will just get you down.

Look for the headwall with the striking crack. Climb up reasonably protected slabs and small corners to a tree ledge. Sling the small tree to the right and make the crux moves off the ledge on a technical slab to a horizontal with good gear. Continue straight up the slab to the headwall with a crack. Climb the crack over the lip and step left onto a slab and follow it to the large pine tree with an anchor.

The route was cleaned and an old pin near the top was found. We made the climb direct which could be different from the original line. Follow the slab and right facing corner to a ledge with a large oak tree. Sling the tree above the headwall and make the crux moves to a tree ledge. Continue up a slab to a large arching flake at the headwall. Move up and left on moderate terrain to a tree anchor on top.

Start below the obvious right facing flake on dirty slabs.  Climb the flake to it's top, then step slightly right and up to "Merrymeeting Ledge", the 5' deep ledge.  Sling the largest tree up high, then boulder up the 15' friction slab/face to better holds.  Place a couple of pieces of gear in a small crack, then negotiate the surprisingly tricky top out moves with a beached whale manoever, or if you're brave on the sharp end, press it out.

Start on the left end of the cliff. Slab climb up a clean streak to the small headwall. Move left and pull over on big flakes and move up to the crux headwall. Pull the crux bulge to gain a large obvious flake. Climb the flake and continue up easier headwalls to the tree anchor above.

 2020 NOTE: the old anchor tree at the top has fallen, and currently the webbing/rings have been moved to a tree further up.  A 70m rope will get you just down to the Tardis starting ledge (tie knots in ends to be safe); any shorter you'll want to walk off left around the cliff.   Until someone gets to it with a chainsaw, be prepared to negotiate the large fallen tree during ascent & rappel.

Start on a clean slab left of a large oak tree to a left facing corner. Traverse left across the lip of the roof to good holds and gear. Pull the headwall through a notch to a tree ledge. Continue up a featured slab to an overlap. Follow the flake/dike system to a tree anchor shared with the previous route.Cliff Top finish: Toltec ThunderYou can now continue directly to the top of the cliff. At the top of Toltec Dream, go left a few feet, make the beginning crux moves on a good horizontal cam placement up high, and finish on easy terrain to the big tree anchor

This route can be done as one long pitch.P1: Start on a slab with two starts. The left start is hard 5.9 and the right start is 5.7. Climb the slabs to a set of overlaps. Follow the features through the overlaps to a tree ledge. 50 5.7P2: Walk up a slightly left to slab. Follow the features up and right to an overlap with a bolt. Pull the crux overlap and finish to the tree anchor on the right. 50 5.92021 update: you can continue past the top of this climb, up and to the left off a clean face to a tree anchor and walk off left 

About 60 right of Man Eater is a partially cleaned strip trending left to the golden face above.   P1: Climb up to a big flake. Get on the flake and traverse left to a large ledge. Continue up the wall with gear to a pin that protects the crux golden headwall. Climb the headwall to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. 100  5.8 R   P2: Traverse up and right into a large corner. Climb up the corner to a ledge at half height. Step right making an airy move onto the slab face and continue up horizontals to the top. 55  5.7 

Start 15 right of Hanta Yo.   P1: Start on blocky terrain and continue up the fat crack system until it ends. Make the crux slab move with a pine tree growing off the cliff  to the tree ledge. Move up a slab to the right arching small corner. Climb the fun corner with  holds out left to the pine tree anchor. 90  5.9   P2: Climb straight up and left on flakes in a clean streak to the top. 35   

Hanta Yo (emphasis on the second syllable) is Lakota Sioux for "clear the way" which was necessary for the first ascent, and good advice for the spotter on the initial slab... The climb is located where the approach trail meets the base of the cliff. Climb up the 18 ft of unprotected slab to a tree ledge. Move up the corner and pull the roof on good flakes and holds to another tree ledge. Continue up and left placing gear when possible. Pull the final headwall to a large tree ledge. Move right to a big tree and rap.

 --- Alternate Start: "The Variant" -a section has been cleared between Toltec Dream and Hanta Yo. There is now a horizontal and flake that can be protected down low to the left of the initial slab. Finish on small feet and rejoin the climb on the ledge -5.8. 2020, Jim Nupp, David Giampietro, J. Browher. 

Climb up easy flakes and rails past a pin to a brown streak with two bolts. Climb the crux slab past two bolts to a ledge. Continue up the face past two more bolts to a large ledge and a two bolt anchor. (You can bring a rack to #1 to supplement the bolts).

Start next to the three birch trees and pull on past the right side of a small pine tree about 10' up. A few easy moves lead to a ledge below a dark wall with a thin, right facing flake. Make tricky moves (crux, pg-13) up to a horizontal crack and get some bomber gear. Next make some slab moves to the short, overhanging headwall. Pull over (2nd crux?) this on good holds, then a short bit of easy climbing leads to the anchor.

P1 -125ft. P2 -50ft***First free ascent is an open project. It's hard slab moves (see comment below)Thunder Island ascends the dike system to the right of Onslaught, then continues to the top of the cliff. It currently requires some aid climbing on bolts, but it will go free! (Open free project). Ascend the easy slab, starting at a small Left facing corner below a small sapling. Follow the slab along the faint dike, with a pocket to place protection. Continue past a right facing flake. If you are attempting a free ascent, you can build a thread anchor here to reduce the rope length for the leader. Continue up another slab, up the dike, on fun moves. Aid the blank section following the 3 bolts until the dike becomes more prominent again. Belay from the Fixe vertical bolt anchor. Pitch two is a short but sweet finish with one small headwall, followed by easy climbing to a big tree anchor. 70m is enough to get down P1.  From the top of P2, you're better off just walking off to the left. You could use a 60m off top of p1 and down climb a low-angle section.Only equipment needed for the A1 section is a couple slings and/or an aider ladder

This climb is located just to the right of the descent gully on the left side of the cliff. Climb a short slab with horizontals and pine trees growing on it. Top out and walk off or rap from trees.

The Indigenous Wall runs from the far left of the main cliff to the obvious blocky corner of the route Orthanc in the center of the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2. Indigenous Wall