This is the main route on the boulder's south face and the easiest route on the entire rock. It is probably a good idea to climb this first and get to know it, because it is also the best way to get off the boulder when you top out from other routes. Sit start and climb the obvious weakness, using a series of cracks as bomber holds.

Shag Carpet

The Goblin

Punji

Unknown Project

Pick Pocket

Pocket Full of Crypto

This project was started by someone other than ourselves, so if it looks familiar and you want to submit a grade and a name or a FA, please let me know.

Start matched on a jug and move up and left with a huge throw to a small hold. From there, I'm not sure where it goes. Perhaps straight up? Perhaps up and left across the sun itself? Either way would be very difficult. Most likely, this has not been sent yet and could very well be more difficult than V6.

This is a dang challenging boulder problem. This blank arete seems at first to defy climbing, but there is a way. Crouch start with an undercling on your left hand and use creative holds to work up the arete. A sloped, one-finger pocket is a good hold for this problem! A successful ascent usually requires a fingertip gaston, a full-on rock hump, and a lot of cussing and head scratching.

This is a small corner just left of the west face. This route isn't particularly difficult, but tree branches underneath you could be very bad if you fell on them.

This excellent traverse is one of the best problems in the area. Start far left on the west face and traverse right using a variety of interesting grips. Round the corner and traverse across the south face as well. One variation, at roughly the same grade, tops out up the

Shag Carpet

route on the south face. This traverse requires pinch holds, sidepulls, finger pockets, underclings, and very precise foot work. The crux is probably getting around

The Goblin

arete or perhaps getting to the far end of the south face after you pass the bottom of

Shag Carpet

. Great, great problem!

This is another beautiful, aesthetic line on New Mexico's west face! Sit start on jugs and climb a series of great little pockets to a small crimp and an easy top-out. There is no walk-off; downclimbing

Shag Carpet

is the easiest way off the boulder.

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Location

Protection

Routes in New Mexico Boulder