Stand start (or sit start four feet right and traverse left back to the sidepull boobies to make it a V2+), and work the balancy, sidepull boobies for a big move to a sloper. Pull up, find some feet, and make a semi-stressful topout. The feet are great though.

Grab These Huge Jugs

Nietzsche's Fingers

Nomad Prince

Sandstone Spacecraft

Just The Tip

Unicorn

Nomad King

Deleuzion

Deleuzion is a very fun problem with a good landing (pad recommended still). Sit start with high hands on sharp side pockets, figure your feet out, make a few big moves up the small crack, move feet up and reach high for the obvious sloper, match and move to teeth-like right hand or risk a big move past it to last sloping hold, match, and top out.

Sit start overhanging with an awesome match (it might break soon), look for good feet, and make bump or big throw to left hand crimps or a side pocket. Hanging on with your right hand low, throw a mean heel hook-way high to help balance the imminent swing, hang on, rip finger skin, and work the easier 12 remaining feet to the top.

Do the same start as for

Nomad King

(sit start with magic left hand and decent sloper with right hand -- at leftmost corner of boulder), but head left staying low-ish with the obvious traverse. Find the line up the center of that left side to the top, or continue traversing left to make it even less risky.

Sit start kinda sideways with a right foot way high to help push for the left sloping edge. Throw the move, hang on with that left hand, bumping it up, the feet are rough, but work that left edge and balance your way up, topping out after a few desperate side sloping moves. "Keep your feet off that back wall cheater!"

Start on the same shallow dish matching hold as

Nietzsche's Fingers

. Sit starting on that damn rock I can't move, pull up, reach left for some bumps to a great left hand sloper jug thing, pull up balancing your feet, and grab that little tip with your right hand. Now, left foot hooks around the left corner to balance as you reach right and fight for the top out. The last few moves are tough, but it's there. Fingers will hate you if you are sloppy.

Sit start underneath the obvious overhang (just left of

Nietzsche's Fingers

, moving to the south face) with shallow, left hand jug, right hand on crimp. Get a great left foot (breaking chunks off still though) and your right foot kinda dangles. Pull up for a right hand bump, traverse left. The next is a big move/dyno up to the horn, be easy though, that horn looks questionable, keep solid feet! Move up the belly, and top out.

This boulder requires your attention to care and endurance. Sit start at the bottom left of the boulder, left hand on some magical crimp and right on decent side sloper, move up staying on the corner of the boulder, move through sidepulls and crimps until you finally get a great, baby head-like horn to launch up to. The hard part is over until the top. Move out the overhang (at this point, concentrate or have an army of pads and a spotter or 4). The overhang isn't bad but topping out is, well, GOOD LUCK!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Nomad's Land